Week 19: Just saying it, could even make it happen

Anaconda to Augusta

September 7th to September 13th

146 ish Miles

Day 125: Leaving Anaconda

When things like the ability to shower, launder, purchase food and beer, come less frequently, ones desire for them is of course greater. And when they do eventually occur time speeds up. We seem to leave town much faster than the last dragging miles before our arrival. Its just not fair is it?

We woke, glad of an earlier night than our friends who may or may not have been in bed before midnight, or even 4am. And may or may not have drunk too much causing their dinner to make a surprise reappearance.

We prepared the contents of our packs, which when splayed out a cross a room, look like a surprising amount of things. But when i check Facebook and see what our dear friends Katie and Sophie took for one night away at the seaside, I’m reminded how little we carry.

We left for the Bistro on Cliffs reccomendation. She was already there. We ate baked goods and drank complimentary coffee from the nice lady’s who worked there.

We learned about Maps’ bear spray accidentally going off in the bar, after we’d left last night; and the locals angry reaction to this, thinking it was intentional. Sounds like the gang may not have escaped with their lives had it not been for Maps’ ability to talk her way out of absolutely anything. I was again thankful for our early night.

We hiked out of town via Combos and gas (for our stove). No less than 20,000 people stopped to chat about who we are, where we were from and where we were going.

We met the nice man who gave us a lift through the rain back from he supermarket yesterday, he offered to drive us over 20 miles up the road so we skip this next “crappy” section. Tempting though it was to be 20 miles ahead for free, we politely declined. We’d skipped no trail miles yet and we’re keen on continuous footsteps to Canada.

So, up the highway we went. Chatting all the way. It was almost midday when we began hiking. After a few miles we turned off the highway onto a smaller road. We’d be on this for 6 more miles before crossing the interstate.

Something in today reminded me of home. Suffolk smells were in the air. I saw some tractors, and flat fields.

We’d stopped for lunch on the roadside. We received word that Maps and Flip Flop would be zeroing due to dehydration as a result of overconsumption of alcohol based drinks.

We bumped into Spooky and Handful, and then a large tour of university students on a trip out to look at the effects of the smelter and mine on the water (which Spooky and Handful had just loaded up on). We were advised not to drink it due to dead fish upstream. The tour group offered us brownies and fresh fruit. I declined as I’m watching my weight. Oh wait, no, I’m absolutely not.

We continued on as a 4, turning off the road a few miles ahead into a ranch where the fattest, cutest dog welcomed us. We’d read on the app that we could get water here, which we most certainly could, from a nice man who invited us to chat, but didn’t seem to mind when we insisted we must press on.

Press on we did. Snakes and I took a break. No tea today though as we were short on time. 3 more people drove by and stopped to ask what the HELL we were doing and where we were from.

We continued on, now on dirt road. We caught up to Cliff, just finishing a break herself and power walked with her for the rest of the afternoon.

Dinner was in the form of under-calorific noodles and sour patch kids. We talkef about whether or not when on trail, we were at all different than in off-trail life. I concurred that I was exactly the same. Snakes however, is more hilarious than usual. And she’s usually hilarious.

2.7 more miles saw us at a nice flat spot with a perfect branch for a bear hang. Which was executed surprisingly efficiently if I do say so myself, which I do.

Night fell fast and before long, we were snuggled in the tent. Me in my new sleeping bag liner which smells of the finest laundry powder Llynne Hughes has ever used.

22.7 miles on the day.

Day 126: Smeach

Cliff was up and about when we made it out of the tent, she departed soon after.

We set out, having packed up, along the dirt road, ascending gently. The 2.7 miles to rejoin the official CDT came quickly and we saw Spooky and Handful scurry away as we arrived and removed layers.

The day was claggy, or, smeachy. You know what I mean. Rain was forecast. We walked into cloud as we ascended. Having not collected water since the nice man on the ranch, through fear of poisoning from the smelter and mine, we were now empty and the next source was marked as disgusting. We pushed through, luckily the air was cool. We made it over 8 miles for breakfast at a lovely running spring.

Most hikers at this point have sent their stoves home. They cold soak food to save on weight (stove and gas) and to save on attracting bears as aromas are stronger with hot food than cold.

We however, carry a stove. No matter how my bear fear increases, my desire for hot coffee will always win over ditching the stove. We also cook at least two miles before we sleep. It breaks up the afternoon and ensures all aromas are clear of us.

Coffee this morning was more welcome than ever. Not least because of the deliciousness of the coffee from Jo’s care package, but also because the temperature was reading ‘mild’.

We pushed on uphill still and through misty woodland. And uneventful and fairly contemplative 7 or so miles encouraged hunger, and so we stopped for lunch. I rigged a line to dry our tent on, soaked from last night. With rain due, this was a priority. We ate sandwiches and I was incredibly grateful for salad cream. And tiny Sriracha sauce.

We continued downhill for a mile before climbing gradually once again. I’m not sure if it was the gloomy weather, or the thick wood, or a combination, but today felt fairly beary. We whooped our way up through the woods, high on alert until Handful appeared scaring the poop out of me. She made us aware of and up and coming shortcut which may save 2 miles on the day. Hoorah.

We moved on another 4 miles or so and crossed low flowing streams to collect water for tea. At 21 miles we stopped and endulged as we do.

These moments of pleasure, shall not be cut short due to weather.

As we hiked off, it did begin to rain. Which was less than pleasing but at least it was after tea break. The rain hardened to umbrella levels. I can probably count the number of times I’ve used our umbrella due to rain, on 8 fingers. Though its a little used item, it’s possibly the one I’m most grateful for. It keeps a good 78% of the rain off me and encapsulates me in a warm area around my top half.

We were following the alternate now, 2 miles on the black foot trail and then a right turn on to the bison trail for 1 mile back to the CDT. We were hoping to shave off a few miles. We followed it on good advice that though the GPS would have us off the trail most of the time, if we just followed what was in front of us , we would arrive where we needed to be.

We arrived in reality where one path split 90 degrees to our right. On the map, we were a little short of the junction, but, as we were advised the GPS was inaccurate. We took the right tirn which lead us down to a meadow and a river running through it. After a short time paralleling the river on the path, the trail disappeared all together. The rain was intensifying. We marched about the boggy wet meadow for some time, trying to find where the path went, to no avail. I saw a permenant tent erected and encased in fencing. I hoped the owner would hear my whoops and direct us, but, no one was home.

We decided we’d wasted enough time looking for the trail and that we must be wrong. My feet were soaking. We went back to the turning where we’d taken a right, and decided to carry on straight. Hikers generally lay logs over the incorrect route, and a log had been perposfully laid on this option, hence we hadn’t taken it.

Rather frustrated now, we sped up to find our right turn. On the GPS now, we were well passed it. Damn.

We now either back track 2/3 miles back to the CDT from whence we’d started this alternate, or, head back down the original right hand trail and bash about the meadow some more, looking for the correct route, or, carry on further into the abyss and hope everything works out. Light was fading now at 7pm. Rain was lashing and I was anxious.

We chose the latter as it involved no backtracking and the most amount of unknown.

Thankfully, after a few minutes and way beyond the turning on the GPS, we arrived at a junction, clearly marked as the one we wanted.

We now romped, quickly on this trail, which turned sharply back on itself to pretty much parallel where we’d just come from. Cool.

We crossed the river we’d splashed about in a while before, lost in the meadow, then carried on backtracking, frustratingly in the direction we’d just come still, now though, on the other side of the river and on trail. Eventually we ended up back at the bloody permanent tent we’d seen before, and at this point turned sharply uphill, up the valley we’d been searching for.

It was now raining harder than anything ever before. We were losing light, we couldn’t see ahead (for bears) due to umbrella vision block, the trail was steep and muddy.

I joked when I introduced this blog that Snakes and I hiked this trail to ensure we were making the correct decision in marrying. From here, today, I was offered yet more assurance that I would marry the shite out of her once we’d finished. Every single time I turned to check she was still alive and behind me, she gave me a ridiculous (given the circumstances) smile. She rushed up to me at one point and happily suggested we should drink the wine I was carrying. What a gal.

We climbed the hill, one steep mile of up. Eventually and luckily the rain eased. We could hear thunder all around us. We made it back to the CDT and we’re a few miles ahead of where we expected. At 7:30 we agreed we should set up the tent in the lull in weather. We struggled, as usual to find a spot with no dead trees to kill us, and entually just settled on ‘anywhere’.

We were a master team. Snakes erected the tent while I got the water boiling a few yards away. I then hung rope to prepare to hang the food and before long we had all out kit away, and we’re sitting down supping wine and eating. Rain began again and I inhaled my food, and the wine. Just as it got much harder, we shoved everything in the bear bag, flung them into the sky and escaped into the tent.

Thunder shot closer than I’ve ever experienced, then rain pummeled down on us. But we were in, warm, dry, safe (?)

We would wee in the porch tonight.

27 ish miles on the day.

Day : Rain into Helena

It rained all night. Really hard. Water was seeping in everywhere. Moisture in the air made absolutely everything damp. Damp damp damp. I barely slept. The rain on the tent meant hearing possible bear activity would be harder. Rather than being appeased by this I just lay awake listening harder.

By the time we woke, late, it had subsided and mainly leaf drip was falling. Damp and cold we packed up and collected the bear sacks from the tree.

We hiked out, into the misty smeach of the day. Part of the the trail today had been recently rerouted and we learned that the reroute was longer than the mileage shows on the app. We therefore took the old CDT route, a little rougher but ultimately easy to follow. It began to rain again.

We saw Family Size on the way, still hiding out in his tent at 9:30am. Waiting for the rain to stop. We thought the downpour would affect our breakfast plans, but it subsided just in time for us to make coffee and granola.

We hiked on as the day began to brighten, eventually the sun came out but a cool breeze kept our waterproofs on. Time was moving fast and we were hiking fast. At some point Snakes realised I’d lost one of the two damp, filthy socks I’d hung on my pack to dry. These were my birthday socks from Jacqui and I was quite sad about this.

Before long it was 4pm and we were at the highway hitching into Helena with Family Size. It felt pretty damn good to be in a car.

We landed in town and checked into Americas Best Value Inn where Cliff Jumper had got us a room. The room was identified by many items of hiker trash gear hanging over the balcony.

It was a while before my insides warmed up. I had a long shower and got coffee. We hung all of our things to dry.

The owner of the motel offered to drive us downtown, which was kind. 2 miles of unnecessary walking was on no one’s agenda. We ended up at the brewery, it came as a surprise to me too.

After this we went to a horrible sports bar and discussed how terribly short gameplay in American Football is. While Bear tried feverishly to defend the sport, Snakes and I concurred it was stupid and boring.

The food was good though. We left here for Jester bar where we found Wonder Woman and Oakley. An Uber cost more than the Motel did after a drunk Bear insisted we drive back via burger King.

We avoided a motel party, mainly because the room smelled of feet.

23.5 miles on the day.

Day 127: Zero 15!

Snow was forecast for over 7000 feet for the next week. Rain was forecast for today, but less rain was due tomorrow. Naturally a zero was in order. No one likes hiking, let alone hiking in the rain.

We meggled for a good while before moving. Snakes went for coffee at the front desk and I lay in wait.

Eventually we left for the coffee place up the road where Spooky, Handful, Baby Food, and Cliff Jumper were festering. Here too was ‘Jesus’ who we’d met on day one and not seen since. We had an incredible sandwich and a delectable coffee, then left for a resupply. This resupply was only for 3 days, though it always seems to cost the same no matter what. It included new items, such as tofu, cous cous and muffins.

Back to the room now for maximum meggle time. Snakes ordered the food and laundry and began wiping down all the surfaces in the room. She runs a tight ship. I was to help by keeping out of the way.

We watched a horiffic film about Tina Turner, then by 3pm Family Size left for the outfitters (and would buy me new socks) while we went to the front desk to ride with the manager of the motel to the post office.

He was a lovey. I liked him immediately. We arrived and bumped into Baby Food and Handful. It was again, Miss Handful who alerted us to a shortcut on the next section saving a few miles.

We collected our package from my good chum Sherpa, whom I’d hiked a little over 1000 miles of the PCT with. He was cheering us along from Massachusetts and had provided a good year of solid advice while we planned for this trip, having hiked it himself in 2017. Inside was two power hats to see us through until the end, also chai coffee which was a particular favourite of his… Great stuff.

Sherpa contacted me to ensure everyone was jealous of our hats, I could confirm that they were.

We drove back to the motel and got straight back into bed. Family arrived with socks and Cliff arrived back from Walmart with an electric pink umbrella. She makes a habit of losing most of her belongings, I think this is her third umbrella. Let’s hope the pink keeps it hard to lose.

We all sat down with scraps of cardboard, and began the quiz which Snakes’ sister Sara had sent some time back. Both our families and friends had contributed to the questions in the 14 round quiz. It brought much in the way of hilarity, especially watching poor family Size (who is German) try to work out where poodles originated.

Needless to say I won the quiz. But the extra bonus round of ‘who wrote which section’ and ‘which item of clothing best refers to which contributer’ tipped Snakes into the lead. Cliff Jumper came in a healthy 3rd, impressive considering most questions were ridiculous, and poor Family Size got 4. Total. He did seem more focused on his 2 pints of snickers ice cream which he finished before the quiz ended.

Soon after the trauma of the quiz ended, Maps arrived along with Bear. They ordered takeaway while I made possibly the biggest ever sandwich with items we bought from the supermarket earlier.

A hiker named Jangles walked in. I’d yet to meet Jangles. He was welcomed and invited to a spare square of bed to sit. He presented a sock and asked if it belonged to anyone. YES IT JOLLY WELL DID , IT WAS MY SOCK. Jangles, who is my new favourite person had discovered my missing sock, off trail, filthy, wet and probably quite disgusting. Any normal human may presume this had been used in an emergency situation when the owner of the sock had run out of toilet paper, or just presumed it would be full of feet and quite horrible to handle. But no, Jangles picked up the sodden sock and carried it to the trailhead and hitched with it into Helena. There, he laundered it and began searching for the owner. I remind you these were my birthday socks from the infamous Jacqui which were fast becoming my favourites. Oh Jangles.

0 miles On the day.

Day 128: Leaving Helena

This bed was probably the most comfortable on trail. Regardless I left the room into the cold wet 8am morning and returned with coffee for all. The motel breakfast available was invisible to everyone except Family Size who always seemed to aquire it where everyone else failed. I settled for a muffin and a nectarine.

Having text a group of trail angels yesterday and arranged a ride, Bob showed up at 8:58 ready to drive us back to the trail. Bob expects nothing in returned, though we offered money for fuel and time. Just like so many of the other kind souls along the way helping us achieve our ridiculous goal.

We vacated the warmth of Bob’s car just under 30inutes after we got in it. We were back at the trailhead and it was weeing it down with rain. The forecast said it would subside by 12 and give sun by 5.

Fully donned in waterproofs, top and bottom, with umbrellas erected, Cliff Jumper, Snakes and I walked into the rainy abyss; while Bear marched as quickly as possible, only wearing his tiny turquoise shorts and a rain jacket.

The others had either left the night before, or were staying to wait out the morning weather.

The woodland was less bear-like and more fairy like today. It felt more amiable and enjoyable. The most and clag wore off eventually. We spent the first 6 miles hurdling a mass of blowdowns and avoiding wet feet in the off trail grassy tundra.

We emerged on a road and watched Bear dissapear into the day.

At this point Snakes realised she had life chores to sort as she saw Netflix had been charging her for 6 months, Amazon Audible had been too, for 3 months and she’d booked tickets to Cirque du Soleil for my birthday, a month early and we would still be on trail.

Life chores are a smack in the face, a reality which feels more tiresome here, hiking in the rain, than it would in normal life. Being the ridiculously efficient and organised gal she is, and given she had signal, she managed to rectify 2.5 of these situations and before long had all the monies back in her account and an uncertain cloud over the ticket situation.

We stopped at water and drank chai coffee from Sherpa which was quite delicious. We powered on up the valley and up further along the spine of the ridge. Someone had deposited these pumpkins en route for some Halloween cheer. Over a month early.

We decided to complete the climb before dinner, it’d be later than usual but we’d feel better about ourselves. This was another dry stretch so we were maxed out on water and we’re carrying our capacity. My back was upset about this.

We ate pasta with instant noodles and mixed in kale which Cliff Jumper had given us. The Kale made it less boring than usual, but didn’t stop it being boring altogether. We had a smashing view though.

Now in both my fleece, waterproof jacket and wooly hat and the coldest I’ve been at dinner time yet, we descended the mountain aiming for a saddle where I presumed we could camp. We made it less than that before finding a suitable spot, just as dark was arriving.

I managed to throw the rope for our hang first time and hoist our smellies into the air, while Snakes made home.

It’s cold. The introduction of a sleeping bag liner offers a few extra degrees of warmth, but my sleeping pag is now as if I’m lying on damp newspaper. I lay here now, in the tent at 8:30, and it’s dark already. We need to get finished…

Day 129: When we caught glum

It was cold when we woke, so we lay in for an extra 18 minutes. Once packed up and moving it wasn’t as bad, but we still had all our clothes on.

We were both creaky and achey, put bodies are starting to ask for a longer break.

Today was one of a lot of ascent and getting our layering system right in the wind and cold was tough. Areas of cloud created misty clag to walk through, and within a few hundred feet we’d be in an area of sun, with warmth and stonking views. We made slow progress after a colder, later start. Breakfast was before 5 miles.

We continued a little bored and a little glum. Up and down repeadtedly. Somehow, having not really been paying any attention, we were at 14 miles before lunch. At 16.4 miles today, at Steeple Pass, there was, odly an outdoor supplier. A chap called Dave who used to run Mt. Laguna Stores on the PCT had sold up in California and bought a patch of land here in Montana to set up the same thing. We decided to push to see Dave for lunch.

As we descended the pass we saw a HUGE man moose bounding through the woods with his GINORMOUS beautiful antlers. In this area, one person gets a permit to shoot one loose a year. Small though that number is, it’s just one too many for my liking.

We came upon a wooden sign saying ‘water’ and pointing to an abyss of woddland which we dove into. We popped out at a large shed like building. There was Dave. He’d bought 20 acres of land, and brought all his stock from california and may well have the world’s greatest selection of ultralight gear. It was a mess, as he’d only been there since June. Workmen were busy installing the chimney for his wood burner, they’d dug for the well so he could offer us ample water. We sat with him and chatted over lunch before mooching in the store.

I wanted everything, but came out with a thicker pair of gloves. Snakes bought a new sleeping bag liner as she had now stuck her feet through the bottom of hers too.

Dave took our rubbish from us too, we like Dave.

We spent a good hour for lunch, and left with full capacity water FROM faves well, as the next stretch was a over 22 miles of dry.

The trail was uninteresting woodland. The glumness returned to us both. We were moving fast and the miles were tucking off well, but we are both agreed we’re ready for this hike to be over now.

We stopped at 25 miles for an entirely boring cous cous dinner. We’d neglected to hang our sodden tent out at lunch, so did so now, in the shade and wind sheltered spot we’d chosen. Needless to say this was pretty ineffective.

We plodded on after our ‘meal’. We soon entered the burn area of the recent fire. Many CDT hikers had been rerouted through this area and had a longer diversion on the highway. We’d been lucky that the closure had been lifted and the fire put out before we’d arrived. It was a sad sight. But, so impressive to see grasses already popping up from the ashes.

The moon tonight was full, we hiked a little longer and made it almost to the next trailhead before finding a suitable flat spot to camp. We chose it for particular atrubites, namely the long squishy grass which I was hoping would provide more insulation than my sleeping pad.

27.8 miles on the day.

Day 130: Augusta

We left later again, having slept in due to lacking desire to walk, or move. We’d managed to reduce todays miles from the expected 18 to 13.8 which gave us some pep.

We began with a fat ascent passing a water cache which was empty. Luckily we hadn’t relied on this as a source so had packed maximum from Dave’s place. We came on to the top of the ridge and ate breakfast.

Snakes dumped her bag and realised she’d lost her hat, her new CDT gift hat. When I ask which hat she thought she’d lost, she realised her lost hat was on her head.

9.2 miles to town.

From here the trail undulated along the ridge. The wind became a big pain in my face and I was relieved to descent over the other side, steeply down to the road.

We got a hitch within minutes with a CDT hiker from last year. He completed the trail Southbound in three months with 4 days off. What a loon. He overtook a truck which was certainly the nearest to death I think I’ve come.

He dropped us at the post office and we bounced our bounce boxes, opting to do this for free, rather than open them and remove our wi ter clothes then pay $20 to send them. We also had a box from REI with Cliff Jumper’s gloves and my new pole tips in, annnnd, a box from my Uncle Paul.

We took said items across the road to the Buckhorn bar where we were met by the world’s friendliest server. The bar ceiling was antlers. Naturally the vegetarian options were limited. We ate a large salad and some deep fried potatoes and a most delicious IPA.

I opened my uncles box and low and behold, all of my favourite things! Thanks Uncle P! I dont even think this town has a petrol station so Combos would have been hard to come by and these are essential my friends.

I was absolutely drunk after a 3rd of my beer.

We sat, undecided about what to do next. The next stretch required a 7 day resupply, its a 30 minute hitch back to the trail and a ridiculously long and steep climb out of here with minimal water. All in all its a shit-show for the penultimate stretch.

Lynne, (pronounced Llynne) Snakes Mum told us we should get a room in town. I think she is wise and fair.

14 miles on the day. Just under 276 miles to go….