The West Country Way. Day 5: Cornwall

We woke to grey clouds, but with a warm breeze off the estuary. The cyclist in the tent next to us was packing up and departing early, but not before giving us a bag of giant Wotsits he decided he no longer wanted. What a great start to the day.

I was up and showered and making tea, before Shelley aggressively asked me what the hell I was doing?! I thought it was 8am. It was 7am.

Anyway, rain was forecast so packing up a currently dry tent, rather than a soon to be sodden one, was probably a great idea.

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We were on our way by 8am. The guide built up our hopes by informing us of “20 glorious miles of railway path” which it probably would have been if the wind wasn’t throwing itself directly at us and our legs didn’t feel like they were made of pankacke batter after yesterday.

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The first 15 miles were all on a slight incline and that, combined with wind, lethargy and the constant threat of rain made for deep regrets about our choice of honeymoon.

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After 8 miles we pulled in to a picnic area off the railway track and made coffee. It turns out that the lack of coffee was the problem all along. Until we got back on the bikes, then biking was the problem once again.

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We pushed on, and arrived in East yarde where there was a surprise cafe selling the BEST coffee while playing lovely massagesque music in the loveliest little hut. Surprise cafes are the very best cafés.

Onward and downhill now, through the woods and still on the railway line. We soon peeled back onto minor roads and up a massive stinker of a hill. I actually, quite like hills at least, more than deceptive flats, which are always lying about their gradient.

The Half Moon Inn in Sheepwash made a good spot for writing the postcards we bought in their local cat infested shop. God I love cats.

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We devoured a small picnic on the benches outside, including our amazing synthetic Wotsits.

Onwards 10 more miles and 3 more chevron hills to the grim little town of Holsworthy. After windy spitty silly rain for most of the day on and off, the clouds finally opened and a deluge of rain ensued. To the point we couldn’t see. We dipped into a pub here, having called each of the 3 establishments in town twice to see if they had a room.

I’m used to planning half a trip, then leaving the rest of it in the hands of the gods. This turned out to be a stupid idea in the South West, after Covid, in the height of summer. No room at any Inn, anywhere. I thought turning up soaking and looking like a drowned rat would convince the pub to let us sleep under a table or in their dog bed, but, no.

The trail we are on is pretty difficult to wild camp on. And, it seems having bikes also limits you’re options as to what is a possible/appropriate spot. There are also SO many cows about, which as we know, Shelley is allergic to.

I called ahead to the pub I’d managed to book a table at months prior to see if she knew of anywhere we could camp or stay and she was lost for ideas.

We commited to having our meal there as planned then finding a spot wherever we could in the now, sheeting rain. Soon after, the proprietor of the pub we were to eat at called back and said how sorry she felt for us as there would be nowhere for us to stay. She invited us to stay in the room in her pub which she only lets out to family and friends. Hoorah!

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It was a massive unexpected treat to be in her squishy room with the best ever shower and a mere flight of stairs away from the pub, in which, we had an elaborate, incredible honeymoon flavoured meal. A great end to the day!

05.08.21

Miles: Fewer than yesterday but still, LOADS.