Week 20: And how we found, the same old fears, wish you were here…

Augusta to east Glacier

September 14th to September 20th

176.6 miles, or something.

Day 130 continued: Augusta

Still in the bar and still undecided on our evening plans we decided to leave all our belongings there and resupply at the general store next door.

The next 7 day food carry could be broken up by sending a resupply box to Benchmark. However, the guy who holds the box for you, (and by ‘holds’ I mean accepts it from the postman and puts it somewhere on his property, only for things to be stolen from it), is by all accounts a total butt head.

He charges between $25 and $27 for the ‘service’ (that’s on top of the $20 it costs to mail it in the first place), and expects payment by cheque sent separately and before the box arrives. He stipulates what size you can send and has been known to refuse boxes without prepayment or which don’t match the size stipulations.

Needless to say we won’t be doing this.

You can also hitch back into Augusta from Benchmark Trailhead but hitching is tough and you’d be hedging your bets on someone actually being there. Or, you can pre-arrange Adam, from Augusta to come and get you for $25 each way.

We’re over budget at this point so the cheapest and less faffy option was just to carry 7 days of food from Augusta to east Glacier.

This fills me with joy.

We were a little conservative on our options. I’ve switched granola for breakfast to bars, I’m back on wraps for lunch and we’ve reduced our three course evening meal to two.

We returned to the bar so we could consume beer while we sorted all our rations. For the first time ever, all my food actually fit in my bear bag, which didn’t make much sense.

From here we decided to head to the RV Park where we could either camp, or get a room. Maps and Cliff Jumper were due in at 7pm and were in the ‘getting a room’ corner.

On arrival we met Adam, who looked more like a Mike, so I just called him that.

He was super welcoming. He was reluctant to give 4 of us a room as previously many groups of hikers had trashed the place. We charmed him into submission and got a room. It was only $10 more than camping, and the weather looked crappy. Mike gave us a beer to take back to the room.

The RV/motel had a bar, so after ablutions we went there. Karaoke was in full swing. We chatted to the locals and everyone had an opinion on whether or not we would beat winter to the border. Which of course no one actually knew.

Maps and Cliff arrived and we met them for food at the bar we’d been in before. Much frivolities and laughter took place. The food was all yellow, as we’ve come to expect. My insides are objecting.

Day 131: Leaving Augusta

Maps woke us all up early. She thought she was being really quiet. I could tell. She left before 7am to resupply.

Snakes, Cliff Jumper and I shuffled around wishing we were still asleep. We drank all the coffee we could, changed the tips of my hiking poles made use of soap and water, then left.

We congregated as a four at the grocery store. Maps already had a fan club forming around her. Snakes and I bought incredible coffee and spent a while deciding on which pastry we should get, we chose the world’s best ever cinnamon bun, then left the store to discover that Maps, In the same predicament just chose all of them.

We managed to get a hitch within a short while, and found ourselves back at the trailhead before long. It was 10am, later than we’d have liked.

Today was a big day ascent wise. 8000 feet within the first 25 miles. Damn it. The climbing was continuous pretty much all day, all the time. 7 days of food and the water options weren’t great.

The wind was completely relentless. Completely horrible. Probably the worst wind ever. I was moved. Not emotionally, physically moved. We kept our waterproofs on for some protection from the battering, and when any amount of shelter came, we baked alive in the heat.

We made it 8 miles or so, of relatively continuous uphill before lunch. Family Size appeared and joined us, providing us with an apple too.

The rest of the mileage was uneventful. Far reaching, would-be stunning views were ruined by the recent fire which blazed through a huge landmass. Pretty sad.

With tiredness increasing we made it to our planned 18.3 miles to a fried up lake, where, just slightly beyond, there was a spring. Snakes filled up on water while I erected the orange home. Family Size joined us and made a fire. I really enjoyed my dinner. Angel hair pasta which Snakes calls ‘hairline’ pasta. Fires are my favourite.

It was only 6:45pm, we’d climbed 6500 feet, if we went any further we’d be climbing again, we thought we’d best call it early and save more miles for tomorrow. It was so nice being in camp early.

Maps arrived after dark. Cliff is a mystery.

18.3 miles on the day.

Day 132: Grizzly Feet

Today we woke to an alarm, the first alarm we’ve set in quite some time. After a handful of moments staring at each other, waiting for the other to suggest lying in for another half hour, we both decided we were awake and we should get up.

We heard the deflating sound of Maps’ sleeping pad soon after her alarm. She was coming too.

We packed up in the dark, but upon leaving, soon exited the woods to a brighter and brightening morning.

The initial 2 mile climb was straightforward, the wind was immediately with us again. It made for listening to Maps’ many, varied and fascinating stories, tricky to hear.

We followed the ridge, exposed and cold for a short while, before dropping off the back of it down to a creek. It was small and gently flowing, the best water we’d had in a long dry few days. Water from here, should improve.

We breakfasted as a trio today. It felt long and luxurious. From here we were treated to a long gentle section of downhill, then steadily rising trail.

We were now in the land of creek crossings once again. Shoes off and in we went.

Travelling with Maps gave much in the way of entertainment, namely her falling, constantly, and turning around to see her on all fours, scrabbling to stand under the weight of her pack. She never requires any help, and so laughing at her is entirely acceptable and totally unavoidable. Later she fell off a rock into the creek. Luckily she finds herself funny too.

We lunched on trail, in a stupid and uncomfortable spot, but, it was lunchtime so what can one do?

We hiked on and discovered wolf and giant bear prints. Lots of them. We were soon to be entering the Bob Marshall Wilderness, where all the grizzly bears hang out. One large male had recently been killed for entering human occupied camps on 5 occasions. He was not responding to bear spray, helicopters or gunfire.

We got wind of a nearby cabin with a piped spring, a porch and a loo. Luxury. We stopped here for tea.

I’m excited for a time when a break, can be as long as I want. All day, for example.

We climbed now, steadily uphill. We passed cottonwood trees, now orange and covered in autumn. The terrain was desolate, as it had been for some time, dead trees and windy gaps, dried crispy tundra and rocky paths. We climbed to a saddle of sad lonely branches and fallen logs, and back down the other side, through the same bleakness.

We bumped into Family Size who’d snuck by us at the cabin, which was slightly off trail. He was tucking into a whole packet of instant mash.

We pushed on, wanting to make a few more miles before dinner. Which we did. There was no perfect spot, anywhere would do. More ‘Hairline pasta’ with noodles mixed in and a lot of hot sauce. Maps soon joined us, then Family Size too.

We hiked off first, as it would be dark in just over an hour. It was now 7pm. Hiking in grizzly country in the dark is pretty much my least favourite thing.

3.2 miles to camp.

After dark we still had a mile to go. We played the capitals game, really loudly, twice. When this got boring we just shouted random things into the night repeatedly until we were exhausted with it.

We made it to the creek, where we’d heard good campspots existed. There had been zero camping opportunities prior to this. Now pitch black, we had to cross the river, over a large fallen tree to get to camp. This proved easy and before long the bear sacks were tied to a tree and the tent erected.

I left my flashing beam on my head torch so Maps and Family Size could see their way in. Which they did. Camping in a group of 4 makes me markedly happier.

10 more days of bear fear.

28.2 miles on the day.

Day 133: The Bob Marshall Wilderness

We gave ourselves an extra half an hour on yesterday’s sleep. I was tired and cosy. It was dark and chilly out. Snakes, Maps and I packed up and left camp by 7am. Family Size was still sound asleep.

The trail we easy, and covered by woodland. It was bloody cold and not warming up as fast as usual.

Bear, wolf and cat prints were abundant and freshly squeezed into the muddy trail. It felt like the three of them were just up ahead.

We breakfasted by water. I ate my last portion of cereal, it would be bars for breakfast from here on in. How very depressing.

We were ejected off the trail onto a dirt road in the sun where we warmed up fast. We arrived at Benchmark Trailhead where we could hitch into town, or have sent a box of food to resupply, we of course, did neither and carried on without delay before the lure of town drew us in.

We found a pit toilet, which was almost as good as the idea of town. What a treat.

A short stretch of trail in woodland, into the infamous ‘Bob Marshall Wilderness’ before the desolation of barren, dead trees filled our views once again.

We stopped at 16 miles at the river for lunch where we nestled under the bridge in the only shade available for miles. Family Size soon arrived.

We watched a man with his wife and three dogs, under the opposing side of the bridge. He was laying on the pebbles with nowhere in particular to be. I was excited for a time when this could be me.

We packed up and hiked on. Leaving Family Size to his nap. The day was hotter than the sun, the leafless trees created mass exposure and we were sweaty messes.

The next 3 miles ached so we sat down in the woods.

3 miles to a rangers cabin for tea. We only drink tea in cabins now. We three were exhausted from the sun. I wanted the tea to last forever.

Family Size caught us just as we were leaving. We soon entered woodland and so enjoyed the shade of the not dead trees. We took a wrong turn down to cross a river, drawn to it for its cleaning properties. We took off our shoes, crossed over, washed our stinking corpses, then realised we need not have crossed it and the trail was in fact over the other side… Shoes off again, we crossed once more.

From here it was peaceful hiking through dense woodland once again. We lost Maps to a podcast and delved once more into the past. The topic of conversation for the next hour or so, was PE at school….

We found a nice spot, 1.5 miles before camp to have dinner. The clouds were conjealing and tiny suggestions of rain began. Maps joined us and we compared calorie intake. It would appear Maps has double what we do, no wonder I now have a visible clavicle.

Onward as a three, and Maps joined in the capitals game.

We soon arrived at the flicker of a fire where Family Size, and 4 chaps on a 6 day jaunt had congregated.

We chatted a while then hung food on a pre-set up rope, and set up camp, just as it began to rain. Sleeping to the sound of rain, when my food is hung on a proper hang and I have 6 additional people around me and can see the light of the fire through the tent, is perfection.

28.5 miles on the day

Day 134: Boredom

The rain returned 30 minutes before we were due to get up. We lay listening to it for 30 minutes after we should have got up.

It eased, and we agreed it sounded worse in the tent. The prospect of 26 miles in the rain was especially demotivating. By the time we were out of the tent, it had eased to nothing. Snakes managed to take down the tent while keeping the inner dry, and stored this well away from the sodden outer.

Maps was awake but hiding in her tent still, so we left ahead of her and Family Size, having his usual lie in.

We had a 3 mile climb in the smeachy depression of the morning. It was cold and a wind above the trees threatened.

Today we would arrive at the only ‘thing’ I was excited about seeing in Montana, the ‘Chinese Wall’. It looked like a staggering block of rock on the Internets.

It emerged on top of the treeline, well before we arrived at its base. It turns out, it is a whopper of a block of rock, but decidedly less impressive than expected. Perhaps I’ve become exhausted of views and impressive things. We talked about how a cat crossing a road would currently catch my attention well before a spectacular valley view. Actually, that’s pretty normal for me. I do like cats.

The morning passed me very quickly. After the huge climb we had 4 more small ones which seemed to fly by. Snakes however, was looking at her watch every half an hour praying it would be lunch time. She’s concerned she’s not rationed enough food for this stretch, which is about the only thing that really scares her.

Jandles passed us (the guy who found my sock in Helena) he’d just got up at 10:30am, as he doesn’t like rain. I don’t like rain either, but I didn’t feel I had much choice.

Maps and Family Size arrived on the last climb as we were having lunch. We were cold and about ready to leave.

Maps had managed to get news on the weather on her InReach and it didn’t seem like the sun would be returning to us anytime soon. The rain would though, so that’s nice.

We pressed on leaving Maps to her sad looking Bagel, and Family to his hot chocolate. We descended for a mile before taking the Spotted Bear alternate. It was shorter and apparently had some spectacular views on the top of the massive climb at the end of it.

We walked 6.4 miles of it utterly unimpressed. It was overgrown and so we were quickly sodden with dew. My legs were ripped up by the plant life. Eventually I had the sense to put on my waterproof trousers. I tripped over everything as I couldn’t see the floor most of the time. It was pretty boring stuff.

We stopped for chai coffee at 18.4 miles. Just as we’d packed up and crossed the river to carry on, a small “yip” could be heard in the woods from behind. Maps caught us and provided us with much entertainment and conversation for the next 4.5 miles. Miles now go quicker with chat for mostly, my mind alone is totally blank. There is nothing more to think about.

We made it to a cabin where we feasted on an early dinner as we’d agreed there was something relaxing about the porch of a cabin. The last two have both offered benches, but we still chose to sit on the floor.

For the remaining 3 miles Maps and I played word disassociation, which enabled time to move quicker.

We arrived at our planned spot just before dark, which was novel. Family Size soon joined.

25.3 miles on the day.

Day 135: Hunger and rain, mixed

I didn’t believe it was 6:30am when we woke today. It was too dark. We packed up in our usual fashion and began our 3.6 mile climb to warm up.

The climb was well graded and felt pretty easy other than for my stomach, which was shouting at me the entire way up.

In weighing up the careful balance between having enough food, and not carrying too much, we may have neglected to consider that this would be our longest stretch with no break, with big miles each day. I am thankful as my back and pack feel light and easy. Snakes is suffering with calorie deficit.

We made the top and added layers as the temperature required it. We descended along a wet muddy path, my shoes caked in gloop which was frequently kicked up onto my legs.

We made it to Deadman Lake by breakfast. It was a most attractive and agreeable spot, coffee tasted even better than usual this morning. Perhaps because I doubled up on the coffee. Maps soon joined us.

We three merrily charged downhill, suddenly autumn appeared in full swing.

We hiked a speedy 8 miles to a cabin, which is a system to which we have become accustomed. Naturally we sat on the porch and ate a later lunch at 1:20pm, drying our tent and airing our sleeping bags.

The day was cloudy and cold once again. If rain could hold off I couldn’t care less about anything else.

At the cabin Family Size arrived, just as we were leaving. Maps joined us once again and walked at 100 miles an hour. Which was good, seeing as we were behind schedule.

The rain did not hold off and a drizzle lingered for some time. We executed the speediest dinner in the middle of an unattractive burn area.

As we hiked on, Maps kept time flying by asking for a tour of my parents house. I went into the greatest detail and was so completely lost in the tour, I totally forgot I was walking.

The drizzle became heavy rain and umbrellas became necessary. Soon we were pretty wet and hiking fast for the remaining 4 miles. We made good time, thanks to chit chat. The trail became thick wet sloppy mud and dark settled in for the night. Still 0.6 miles from camp, well beyond the point we should have, we got out our head torches and wandered through dark, dark woodland, thick with wet, overhanging brush, eventually to be greeted by Family Size “hey hey” and the light of his head torch.

We all found dry spots under trees and camped within inches of each other. The tent was dry and cosy, and the rain was to ease by tomorrow.

We slept to the magical howls of a pack of wolves, extremely close to our tents.

27.7 miles on the day.

Day 136:

We woke to leaf drip on the tent, but no rain. The day was grey and moist all over. We departed without delay as today was our last big day.

Soon, after leaving we encountered wolf tracks, practically passing our camp, which explains why they sounded so close last night.

The morning was pretty miserable. We were immediately soaked, for the trail was overgrown above head height with wet brush. I was first to pass through today, so had the joy of 100% dew all over me. This left me pretty cold and underwhelmed by all my life desicions so far.

The Silver lining, which is more of a desperate grasp for anything remotely ‘ok’, was that my muddy shoes, we’re now clean. Great.

We made it 5.3 to a creek and Snakes was desperate to eat, where I wanted to hike at 100 miles per hour to stay warm. We ate breakfast, which turned out to be a good plan as I was extremely hungry and practically filled my 900ml pot to the brim with hot coffee.

We’d wamred slightly and Maps arrived equally miserable, which oddly made me feel better.

From here the trail remained moist but the temperature increased which improved moral. Everything felt better as the day progressed, patches of sun appeared too.

We lunched on trail, a happy time as we felt confident to eat all our remaining lunch supplies given the remaining miles.

We all agreed that the Bob Marshall Wilderness, which had been hyped up to the extreme, was a pack of crap and we couldn’t wait to leave.

The terrain was easy and the day continued to warm. We moved fast and crossed 9 rivers, 4 with dry feet, rock hopping is a challenge I enjoy, but the remainder we waded through as there was no other option. My feet were wet anyway.

Drizzle returned and the umbrella was erected, but only for a moment or two. We saw Jangles waiting for Pabst, who we’d heard of but not yet met. Here was a good spot to dinner and await Maps’ speedy arrival.

We all ate together. Pabst arrived and we discussed shortcuts and options for the remaining miles. We 5 hiked together on the shortest cut we could find, down to the highway. A quarter of a mile in, after passing the freshest bear poop I’d seen yet, it became clear we were about to enter private land. Usually I’d be OK with this, but its bow and gun hunting season and I didn’t fancy my chances of not being mistaken for an elk in my attire. There was also the likely chance of just being shot outright for trespassing. We all turned around and together took a different, longer, safer cut up a hill towards the road.

The hill plateaued and we could hear the dull hum of the highway AKA freedom and beer. Dark was setting itself up for the night, so we found flat spots on the plateau, ready for a quick descent and exit to the road tomorrow.

26 ish miles on the day (it’s unclear)

Day 141: East Glacier

You’ll notice the days have jumped up, it turns out I can’t count and have somewhere lost a week. I rarely know what day it is so that’s hardly surprising.

Waking up on town day is like waking up on Christmas morning. We lay in until 7am as the night had been cold and the morning was too.

We were first to leave camp and romp down the switchbacks to the road. From here it was a simple 8.8 mile walk to town. I revelled in a sunny morning, not a cloud in the sky. I also enjoyed music, which I don’t listen to on trail for fear of bears. With Snakes’ headphones safely in place, I could sing, unphased by anyone who may hear me, at the absolute top of my voice. It felt extremely good.

Town came quickly as road walking is fast. We went straight to the post office and picked up packages from ourselves. Also, Snakes won the battle with Black Diamond and has been sent a brand new set of hiking poles, 5 days from the finish. Ideal. She bounced these on for free to my uncle in New Jersey, who now has a truck load of our belongings awaiting collection.

We congregated at the Two Medicine Grill where the most flustered server flustered all over us. It’s the end of the season in East Glacier, so everyone is on wind down. The shops are allowing their stock to run down and shelves are empty. The fact that Bear, Baby Food, Maps, Flip Flop, Spooky Noodle, Snakes and I all wanted to sit together was a major issue. As was the fact that we wanted (needed) coffee, as was our breakfast order and our desire to pay him for it.

The breakfast was absolutely the worst on trail, or maybe I’m just fussy. Raw potato hash browns may well be a ‘thing’ in Montana.

We left breakfast in search of immediate lunch and headed straight to the bakery. This was a markedly better experience. Snakes and I ordered sandwiches, coffee and cinnamon rolls. We purchased beer and left for the motel room Maps had prebooked.

The motel, which was really quite cute, was out of soap and shampoo. So that was that.

Laundry was efficiently and immediately underway and I washed the 7 day layers of muck of my crumbling body.

Family Size has his birthday on monday (it’s Friday) so we decided it must be celebrated tonight. We began with a drink at the famous East Glacier Lodge, which was far too good for us. It was made of redwood trees.

From here there was a dive bar and some Mexican food, followed by karaoke which was the push I needed to walk back to the motel.

East Glacier may be the town I’m most happy to have arrived in.

Tomorrow will be our last zero before the final four or five day stretch to Canada, so next time you hear from me, unless I’ve had an encounter with a grizzly, we’ll be finished…. Gosh damn!