The AZT: Section 4: Kearney to Superior. knees be willing.

April 1st: Day 13: Back on trail, but for how long?

We were up and out early today, as we needed to drop the car a full 5 minute drive from our hotel and meet Vicki Grant,  who’d kindly agreed to shuttle Sankes and I to the trailhead where she was picking up her injured husband. After another disgraceful breakfast, we loaded up our little (big) truck and went for one last spin in it.

Vicki, and her pal Sharon arrived bang on 9am. They drove us out of town via a post office so we could mail our next resupply box ahead. Any items we didn’t think we’d need between now and then, and four days worth of food went in it, and off it went to Roosevelt Lake, where we would hope to see it again in 8 days or so. Many hikers mail boxes to the same spots, so it’s important to make yours easy to identify.

Before long, we were at the trailhead. In our time absent from the trail, wildflowers had emerged and the whole desert was alight with colour. Sharon gave us some homemade ginger cookies and we waved off our kind friends.

Having put the full pack on my back, my knee was agrivated and making a noise about its vulnerable situation. Snakes, desperate for this to work out, took around half the weight of my pack and added it to hers to alleviate the pain. What a hero.

We walked gently and carefully at around 2.5 mph, it was a nice pace. We stopped frequently for, probabaly the same photo on repeat as every corner was lit up in colour and cactus. Eventually we got into a rhythm. The initial twinges calmed down and I seemed to be ok moving at this slower (nicer) than usual pace. 10 miles today would suit us just fine and it was only 11.30am when we set off.

The day was the hottest yet, a proper desert day. I ran out of water just in time to top up at the next spot. The trail came out into a dry wash, a tributary of the Gila river, and we followed the wash off trail to the river itself. Cold, brown and full of matter, but a joy to behold as our water bottles were refilled and we found shade to fortify ourselves in the form of a large lunch bap.

We filtered water, sat in the shade, drank rehydration salts, soaked our feet, ate lunch, and enjoyed the fact that we had less than 4 miles left to do today, and my knee felt ok.

Moving off, I was a little sore, but again, taking it slow, I soon warmed up. Where as before the more I walked the worse it felt, now its the opposite, walking seems to help.

The trail was very forgiving and gentle undulated between knolls climbing up and dropping down, some would say, needlessly, but I’m so happy to be back I don’t care how pointless the height gain and loss is as long as I can walk it. Plus, wild flowers, did I mention those?

Before long we were at the next big wash, which we followed off trail to the Gila river once again. This is the same river we crossed more times than any one could be bothered to count in New Mexico on the CDT. Its just as cold here, but certainly a filthier colour.

We filtered water for overnight and enough to get us to the next water spot tomorrow, then, we went in search of a suitable camp spot.

We could see cow prints, and we’d been informed there was a bull in the area. So, we pulled off trail, under a fence and camped in the only and first flat clearing we came to.

Tomorrow we’d aim for 15 miles but have over double the ascent of today, with a 10 mile water carry, which wouldn’t usually be a problem, but this is a very hot an exposed section. We set the alarm for ‘early’.

9.8 miles on the day

April 2nd: Day 14

We woke to the alarm, at 5.30. We wanted to get an early start on the day as it was to be just as hot and exposed as yesterday, but, with less water and over 1000m of accent. Pretty much what I said in the last paragraph, but explained slightly differently.

The worst thing about desert hiking (which we love) is putting on yesterdays sticky, salt firm clothes as soon as you wake-up, and, doing it all in a really confined space, trying not to get in eachothers way, when your limbs aren’t quite functioning properly yet. Most unpleasant.

We woke with ice on the tent, it was a chilly morning, but by the time we’d made 5.8 miles to the first water of the day (and the last water for 10 miles) all the layers of extra clothing were off and we were back to feeling comfortable in our sweaty stinky clothes once again. 

We ate breakfast in a wash, back to cereal and milk with horrible, disgraceful instant coffee. Afterwards, I followed the wash back to the Gila river where I filtered water to fill our entire capacity for the exposed climb ahead. Those of you who didn’t read my gear list, (and why didn’t you?) won’t know that I carry a fetching tan coloured ladies stocking with me. This I drop into the wide opening of my water bladder, and use the elastic top to secure it around the opening. With the stocking dangling like a turd, into the water bladder, I can pour water through the top, and filter out any bits of debris we don’t wish to consume. I then screw our Saywer Squeeze filter onto the opposing end of the bladder and squeeze like bugger to fill our vessels. Every once in a while we backwash our filter to remove bits clogged in it  which in turn will increase the flow rate, but my, my, does that stocking work a treat to get the worst of the gunk out.

Apologies for you true fans who read the gear list for the repetition there, though I’m sure you were dying to find out how the stocking plan panned out. It works well, thanks.

It was already hot at 9.00am when we began our 9.5 mile climb. This would be a big test of the old knees. They demonstrated they can do prolonged flat, and recovered well overnight, but can they do uphill?

The climbs was pure magic. This section of trail is hands down the best yet. The Seguaros surround us like a forest and they are all good friends, the occatillo are in flower, the prickly pears are full and healthy looking, the wild flowers look so ridiculously perfect they must be fake, and the backdrop of scenery looks like its just been painted ready for filming the next great Western. Towering vibrant rock outcrops surround us, and Snakes tells me what she thinks they look like and whether or not they have a face. One, was a massive thumb, hers, apparently as she repeatedly tood me.

At lunch time, when the sun is at its highest, there is little shade. In fact, there is little shade anywhere ever. The trail is about a foot wide and meanders. The wild flowers line the path about a foot or two foot high so when the trail bends even slightly, you have no idea where it goes next. I like this a lot. I like just following a dirt line, especially one with wild flowers of all colours cheering you on. Yes, we could use our map but I prefer it to be a surprise.

We saw four Snakes today. Snakes (the person) pooped herself on both occasions in which they were rattle snakes rattling at us.  I usually walk in front, and so when one started rattling at her from behind, she didn’t hesitate to ram me with her pole while she repeatedly and desperately shouted for me to MOVE, I felt like cattle.

We arrived at our days end around 2.30pm. With 15 miles on the day. The rain collector here provided clean water, shade and camping spots. There were also 5 other hikers there to chat with. After cooling off for an hour, we decided it was too early to sit about and that we would hike on a few more miles. Probabaly stupid as 15 miles on my knee was likely enough already.

One of the hikers at the water tank mentioned a trail angel in the town of Superior and gave us her number, we messaged her on route and secured a place to camp at hers when we reach town tomorrow. We can do laundry and wash all manner of things off our bodies and she provides breakfast too.

A few more miles than we’d have liked, and a few more miles than was promised on our map, we came to a trickle of water in an algae filled wash. We scooped from here, passed it through the magic stocking and it came out clear. After a bit of fettling about, we found a suitable camp spot (I would sleep on a rocky cow pat laiden hill, but Snakes is more particular, so I usually just stand there and let her find a spot that suits her many requirements).

Camp was set up in a thrice. Some stretching, eating , painting and journalism happened there after. Today was excellent.

18.4 miles on the day

April 3rd: Day 15

We didn’t set an alarm today, which was nice. Snakes had slept badly due to bull fear. There was a sad sounding bull in the valley, possibly looking for a lady friend and honking around midnight. Naturaly Snakes thought he was seeking us out and would run our tent down. Evidently that didn’t happen.

The morning was warm and joyful. We’d made it 2 days on my rickey knees which seemed to be improving. But we try not to talk about it.

About 2 miles in, I heard the rattle of a snake behind me, knowing I was likely about to get jabbed in the back by Snakes’ pole again, I ran fast up the trail away from it. As it turned out, and unbeknownst to me, Snakes had begun playing a recording she’d made last night, of me snoring. And I’d likened this to a rattle snake. She thought this was hilarious.

A few more miles and we scooped water from an almost dry wash. What hikers a few weeks behind us will do when the heat intensifies and the water is all but gone, I know not. We had a leisurely breakfast with only 5 miles to the highway, where showers awaited.

In 2013 I hiked the Pacific Crest Trail, this was my 10 year anniversary of that trip and coincidently, pals I’d hiked with then, were both in front and behind me. We’d kept in touch and hoped to all meet at some point on trail.

We reached Picket Post trail head. To find a note from our pals ahead.

Jamie (who I knew as Hot Wings) and Jacie (Huck) live in their van, all summer, every summer. They have a chihuahua, Magnus who’s trail name is ‘Tiny Drama’. They provided us drinks and very, very welcome chairs, then drove us into the town of Superior.

On arrival at MJ’s, the trail angels house our other Pal Bier was already there. We had a good time reunion and gassed about times of yore. The other hikers from the rain collector were also at MJ’s and a fine time was had by all.

We showered, and my goodness was it necessary. MJ provides loaner clothes, laundry, snacks, places to sit, and four cats to keep me busy. Allowing a plethora of dirty smelly hikers and all of their grim belongings into your house, hosting them, offering rides, breakfast and all manner of goodies, sounds like hell to me, but, to be on the recieving end of such incredible hospitality is a warmth more valuable to me than most things.

We made quick sidetrip to the store for a 2 day resupply then, with chores now complete we could relax.

We all went for a merry massive Italian dinner together and stayed up later than ever. (9.30pm)

I’m feeling good about the trail ahead. More grateful than I can express to be back in action. (Still sore but feeling hopeful). We’re going to continue to take it slow, we want our pals Tick Tock and Camel to catch us and we’ll have to take the trail north of the snow (about 100 miles away) as it comes.

43 miles and some big climbs to Roosevelt Lake where our poodle box awaits.