We woke to a sunny morning in Dartmouth, today was due to be hot and we were moving inland, away from the coastal breeze.
Having a sweet little b&b in Dartmouth we were able to ‘make’ beans, added to toast – I cleverly combined this with hunky strips of Camembert from last nights picnic, I can highly recommend this decadent combination.
Eric had her morning massage from Snakes and we set off through lovely Dartmouth in the early morning sun, it was immediately hot and we had a big fat climb up out of town, immediately followed by a descent back down to the Dart. Fun.
Even the roads in Devon are nice. We passed by ancient rusty looking boatyards, wildflower strewn woodland glades and low trickling steams. Eric had plenty to drink and Groany had plenty to groan about.
Having climbed back up after the descent which was preceded by the first ascent, we stood high above Greenway, Agatha Christie’s summer home. It was across the dart from us, but ferries from the little village of Dittisham take you across. She purchased it in 1938 and described it as “The loveliest place in the world”. The house provided direct inspiration to two of their novels: ‘Dead Man’s Folly’ and Five Little Pigs. If any of you are big fans, we should Probabaly be best friends.
Why didn’t we go there? BECAUSE I’VE ALREADY BEEN TWICE.
Touché.
Despite the steep and continuous hills, we made some excellent time on the miles. Possibly because Snakes needed the loo. We had a break in Cornworthy where unfortunately there was no loo. (I mean, other than inside peoples houses obvs). The pub was closed, but only closed as in not open, not closed as in we couldn’t get inside, which we did, here we met the gardener and asked if we could use the facilities, which we could, and did.
Here we were met by pals Simon and Lucca, whose pad our car was parked at back in Totnes, their perfect little pup (15 years old) Morris joined us too- much to Eric’s delight, and mine. This was their stomping ground and they were to walk back to the finish with us. Lovely.
We picnicked in Simon’s favourite place in Devon, in a field by the Dart.
From here it was an easy undulating saunter following the dart as it narrowed towards Totnes. We spotted the marina then winded our way to the outskirts of town , landing in the first pub we saw.
Here, Groany decided she had no desire to close the loop on the circuit and would wait for us to pick her up in the car, like the royalty she is. But then Lucca mentioned the best ice cream shop in Devon and Groany was forced back to her feet. She’d walk to the ice cream shop and wait for us to ‘bring the car around’ to her there. Queen Groany.
We walked through town and I, (don’t even like ice cream- it’s too cold) succumbed to the Belgium milk chocolate waffle cone. Probably the best ice cream I’ve ever had. If you’re ever hankering for a cream in Totness- head to Delphini’s.
We left off from here with tummies full of beer and ice cream, the perfect combination for a continuous almost mile uphill. I’m not sure if Groany realised she came with us or not, but she did. It was straight up hill to be reunited with the car, where we would pretty much drive the same quantity of miles we’d just walked in six days, in two hours.
Devon is a stunner- the South Hams way is gloriously varied, some of the best sections of the coastal path I’ve walked and has some excellent pubs, town and village stops along the way. I HIGHLY RECOMMEND IT TO YOU.
Thanks to Simon and Lucca for the car park, to ‘Al’ for driving us to our air BnB when we couldn’t be arsed to walk, to the South Hams Way crew for excellent trail maintenance and signage and to my excellent stalwart companions for such hilarious (albeit moany) company.
Cheers then.
SONDER 