Week 1: The Bootheel

Mexico to Lordsberg

May 2nd to May 6th

85 miles

I seem to have misplaced the memories in my brain which reminded me how hot the desert was. But that’s OK as I have very fresh ones now.

On average the section from the monument back to Lordsburg (85.5 miles) takes 5 days. Here we go!

There are 5 water caches along the way (those ones we’d likely die without) and a mix of water tanks:

And cow ponds:

From which the water must be filtered, as obviously its full of crap….. Actual crap.

Our days revolve around water and sun and after leaving the monument on May 2nd it was a dry 14.1 miles to the first cache.

Day 1: Enter the desert

We planned to ease into this trail, not wanting to cause an early ailment, so the first days itinerary was to make it to this cache.

We were blessed with high spirits on day one, knowing these spirits were to be crushed as the days went on I fully embraced EVERYTHING.

Shelley was immediately given the trail name ‘Ocatillo’ as of course this is her spirit cactus. She’s yet to decide if she’s going to accept it. (Trail name being the name hikers go by while on trail, I pretty much don’t know anyone’s real name). I’ve decided I like to re-name people I meet, to a trail name I like better. They likely don’t know about this, or care.

Our host at the Econo Lodge was absolutely accurate with the ‘desolate bunch of crap’ remark.

But she missed the bit about it being incredibly beautiful, peaceful and completely full of colour. She probably just forgot.

On day one the trail follows a series of washes, or dry river beds which makes for hard hiking on the ankles, but remains pretty flat to compensate.

Lunch can never come too quickly, not when avocado’s are involved.

We made the first cache in good time and stocked up before a long relaxing afternoon.

Later that evening ‘Hurro’ and ‘Juke Box’ (from Shropshire) arrived, it was already most pleasing to hear another British accent. Hurro (AKA Turtle Boy) camped with us and Juke box (AKA Shrop) hiked on.

We decided the best approach to the desert was to rise at 4:30am and hike until noon, find shade for a few hours then complete the last section of the day after the big burning ball of relentlessness has calmed itself down a bit.

This plan proved to be a bloody good one.

Day 2: Adapt to the desert

Today saw us completing an easy 20 miles with this early to rise approach. We hiked in the cool dark for 2 hours then stopped for a delicious cereal breakfast.

The landscape changing by the mile.

Shelley had developed some pretty nasty blisters (by about mile 3) but other than this we were both in pretty good condition.

We carried re-hydration salts and had one at the end of each day which I think was one of the three keys to success on this stretch, along with: finding shade at the right time and ensuring there were plenty of things to laugh at.

Having pushed on past cache 2, We camped in a wash. Ramen noodles and instant mash potato (mixed together) dominated our evening meal options for this stretch. I was so hungry by the evening, I vowed on day two, that I would never get sick of this incredible combination of carbohydrates.

20.1 miles on the day.

Day 3: Where of where is all the desert shade I was promised?

Another 4.00am rise, we packed up in 20 minutes and stopped for breakfast at around 6 miles. This system works well for us – I like the feeling of having earned my breakfast.

Desert hysteria had hit. After a break (in which we always take off our shoes and socks) we were preparing to leave. I misplaced my left sock and spent a good 4 minutes looking for it. Only to discover it had already crept itself onto my foot. Naughty sock.

Shelley amused herself by looking for rocks that could be mistaken for dinosaur eggs and let me know every time she’d see one. Good times.

Today was hot and shade was scarce.

I tended to walk in front as Shelley’s snake fear was placated by knowing if anyone was to get bitten while walking, it would only be me. I suppose that’s fair enough.

When we eventually came to some shade at a water tank, we lay out for a good two hours. We’ve found dehydrated re-fried beans which work perfectly for lunch, mixed with water then left to gently cook in the sun they provide much in the way of a hunger quench. Though they look like poop.

Mid nap, a snake crawled over Ocatillo’s (Shelley’s) legs and casually off into the grass. Needless to say she was less than pleased. Karma?

We pushed a little harder today and made it past water cache 3 and on to the 4th cache, 24.4 miles.

Day 4: This is our life now

Today was a tired day. Up at 4:00am again as this killer plan means most of our miles are done by 12pm. Hiking was really interesting as the trail meandered through rocky outcrops. My thoughts turned to the great westerns, which distracted me nicely from my tiredness.

We got lost for a good ten minutes in the dark, and ended up at a dead cow, which was selfishly blocking the trail.

Generally the trail has been a lot easier to navigate than I’d anticipated. The maps would be about as useful to a blind person as they are to us out here, so we’re going to ditch them and stick to a mixture of the ‘Guthook’ app on my phone (which is amazing), and playing ‘spot the next trail marker’ with our eyes. We’ll see how well we do in weeks to come.

Can anyone see a marker?

The trail itself has been a fun mix of absolutely nothing, a bit of lose trail and dirt roads.

Can anyone see a trail?

The land becomes more obviously owned as more fences and gates appear and must be expertly negotiated to avoid barbed collision which is highly likely due to our decreasing dexterity.

Pole volting a cattle grid

By the end of day 4 we’d made another 21 miles which happily put us 5 miles before Lordsburg for an easy morning hike. No spirits crushed and both still feeling good. Nights like these are GREAT. Everything is feral, sticky, salty and smelly. By day 4 the lure of town is extremely EXCITING.

Day 5: Lordsberg

An early start for easy 5 miles into Lordsburg where all the cleaning happens. We have a list of town chores to complete including buying new shoes (for Shelley) resupplying and lounging about as much as possible, oh and all you (I) can eat salad….

Which turns out to be a lot…

We’re back at the Econo Lodge now, and all the lounging we can muster is currently taking place.

Brutal, beautiful, Boothell (or is it heel?) we salute you.

5 days done, a million more to come.

I miss my cat.

Mileage

Day one: 14.1 miles

Day two : 20.1 miles

Day three: 24.4 miles

Day four: 21.1 miles

Day five: 5.5 miles

Animals seen:

Jack Rabbit: lots

Kangaroo Rat: 1

Rock Squirrel:1

Scorpian: 1Horny Toad: 3