Week 14: The Cirque of the Towers

Lander to Pinedale
August 1st to August 10th
166.5 miles

Day 89: Leaving Lander

We woke in total Holiday Inn bliss.
Briefly escaping for a plastic breakfast before returning to our white sheeted hovel.

As usual, Snakes buzzed around me completing chores and everyone’s laundry.
For a special treat, and to deter the up and coming bears, she also washed our packs. This was lavish. They were so ridiculously sweaty and brown.

Maps left early. Due to an unexpected family operation, she is getting off trail from Pinedale (4 days ahead) for a week, and hopes to rejoin us further up. We will do our best to manage our personal organisation and logistics as best we can without her, though it’ll be tough.

Luckily we’re back with Cliff (one in one out). She worked in a handful of National Parks as a Bear Management Ranger, which makes her a deity to me right now. She is entirely unfazed by the impending threat of grizzlys, which I am not.

We will all be carrying bear spray, Kevlar food sacks and odour proof sacks from here on, until Canada. We will eat dinner 5 miles before we camp, then hang our food well away from where we sleep, ensuring everything smelly, including bug spray and sun cream is nowhere near us.

Camping with more than one tent is also a smart plan. I’d rather be in a group of 15 tents, preferably in the middle, or actually, in a cabin, but that seems unlikely.

We’re told there are fixed bear lockers and some pit toilets along the way in which we could store food too.

Needless to say I’m pooping my pants.

We left the comfort of our bear proof and free hotel, via subway to acquire a big foot-long bap to pack out for dinner.

One of the greatest things about hiking, and therefore being outside a lot, it that on the brightest sunniest days, it’s perfectly acceptable to fall into the most divey, darkest bar, and sit inside drinking beer for an undecided amount of time, without the guilt of: ‘oh, but it’s so lovely outside’.

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We did just this of course.

After birthing out into the dazzling sun, from the hovel from which we came, a term Bear (the hiker) refers to as ‘the kadankies’ we went for lunch.

Time now to finish off our errands.

First, we picked up holsters from our newly acquired bear spray, then picked up some 2mm cord to hang our bear sacks, as we’ve just discovered it’s not sufficient, legally, to enter this National Park with solely a UR Kevlar sack, and that in addition, this must be hung from a tree. Which is both a faff, and hard to get right.

Oh, and I won some sweets.

We then mailed postcards and picked up a package of socks and OP sacks from the poffice.

I remembered my tax bill was due yesterday and rushed to use the free WiFi at MacDonald’s to pay it, before being fined too much by the dreaded HMRC. An unpleasant reminder of reality. Both the tax paying part and the being in MacDonald’s part. Though I did get to charge my phone a trifle more.

We, now 4, (Bear, Cliff, Snakes and I) stood on the road with those infamous thumbs for all of about 13 minutes before Cass stopped to offer us a ride.

She’d just had her eyes dilated, so couldn’t see very well, unfortunately. But she drove us to the pass, and gave us cold water, and didn’t crash so that’s nice.

Bear got off trail 3 miles before us, so he remained in the car to be dropped off a bit further south. Cliff Snakes and I went on our merry way, all of about 2 miles before stopping to eat the subway we’d packed out.

We were getting into the practice of eating dinner well before camp.

We talked the entire way, well, I did, mostly about bears and the biggest do’s and don’ts. Making the odd loud whoop whoop’ to deter possible threats.

At 3.9 miles we stopped just before a total downpour. We hurriedly erected tents and flung our kit inside.

We sat, wet, awaiting the rain to stop while we packed our bear bags. All toiletries (not that we have many) pills, creams, bug spray, sanitiser and chapsticks in the bag.

I had packed out a conservative amount of food, (for me) but it still wouldn’t all fit. Tomatoes were bulging and so the OP sack wouldn’t close.

Soon the rain eased and we were presented with a double rainbow. Possibly the brightest clearest and most complete I’d ever seen.

While I thought seriously about the most appropriate tree, the most appropriate distance away to tie our sacks to, Snakes and Cliff were helpfully taking pictures of the rainbow.

We found a tree some distance away.

I then remembered all the things I’d forgotten to put in it and had to return.

We must get into the habit of taking the spray everywhere with us. A habit both Cliff and Snakes already neglected as the rainbow had their full attention.

Bear (the hiker) turned up shortly after and followed suit.

3.9 miles on the day.

Day 90: BearFear

We woke tired, deciding that perhaps landing in town and drinking all the beers then going to bed late, isn’t the most rejuvenating formula and that maybe we shouldn’t.

Snakes and I went for the food bags, which we found unharmed and tethered to a far tree as we had left them.

Cliff and Bear had both slept badly. I hadn’t though, so that was good.

We all moved around with total uncertainty. Now all our scented items were packed in the bear bag, it was some time before we’d organised all our things back into their rightful spot.

This new bear routine was faffy, and would take some getting used to.

We hiked out by 6:40, an extra 10 minutes on our normal departure time. This would not do.

The terrain was undulating once more, and thick with confusion and damned blow downs. We chatted loudly and I made the odd exclamation. Which I continued to do all day.

We four stopped by a little creek after 5 miles and Bear agreed we certainly did breakfast correctly. We remained within a few miles or minutes of each other and met for lunch under a shade tree. The water was clear and tasted good once again, we were heading back into the mountains. Cliff and I soaked our shirts in a stream, screaming as we dressed again, but felt the cool benefit for all of about 12 minutes before it was dry once more. The last 5 miles were uphill, which I think is unfair.

We stopped to fill up at the last water, then hiked the last miles of the hill, stopping at the top to eat our three course dinner. Cliff and Bear soon joined us.We were aiming to finish at a particular junction, where we leave the CDT for the Cirque of the Towers alternate. This was 2 miles ahead, all downhill. We set up camp and went to find a tree for our first bear bag hang, some distance from the camp. We found it immediately.

Using 50′ of 2mm paracord, I tied the end of the rope to a stick to give it weight, I lobbed it over a branch, while I held the other end. The food must hang, ideally, 6′ out along the branch and away from the trunk of the tree, 6′ down and away from the branch and 12′ up off the ground. Picture it if you will. This specific situation can be somewhat difficult to acquire and sometimes impossible. With the rope now over the branch I tied a figure of 8 on a bite to make a loop which could be undone once weight had been exerted onto it, and clipped in the bear bags with a karabiner. I’m cool right? Snakes and I hoisted our ridiculously heavy food supplies up into the air and tied the other end of the rope off at the base of the tree. Apparently bears won’t associate the hanging food with the tied off rope. Stupid bears. We returned to camp and crawled into our silicone protector for the night.

I dreamt of bears.

Day 91: The Cirque

Today was to be a big day of ascent.

We were entering the Cirque of the Towers alternate. 21.4 miles of supposed glory and majesty.

I’ll be the judge of that.

We began with more faff sorting gear and rearranging that which had been in our undisturbed bear hang overnight. Though our pack-up was in record time, we had an immediate river log crossing, which snakes took a spill on, then nature called (me) and we had to fill up on water.

It was 7am by the time we were hiking out up our first of three hills.

The terrain changed dramatically quickly and soon we were in a Disney film.

Probably Pocahontas.

The terrain was nothing short of spectacular, and fairly demandingly upward.

We took a while over the first 4 steep miles, and stopped early for breakfast. Bear joined us but Cliff had fallen behind. Or she was bored of us, one of the two.

Onward and to the top of our first pass of the day, a steep rocky, slippy ascent.

Every view was completely spectacular and this was absolutely some of the best scenes so far.

The trail was surprisingly and consistently absent which made the going very slow. Not least because off-trail terrain is more difficult to walk on, but also time is consumed in navigating. We also lost a lot of time in awe and picture taking, which is probably time well spent.

Bear has a ridiculous ability to talk while going up the steepest hills. I can barely even exert energy in listening, let alone responding.

We descended through beauty and gasped around most corners.

Eventually we paused for lunch. My most favourite part of the day.

Water was beautiful, clear, tasteless and abundant. A total luxury.

We began our second 3 mile climb up to Jackass Pass. The trail, elusive as ever, led us over rocky terrain, above lakes which we could see right through to their sandy bottoms. Gloriousness.

We saw the largest number of weekend hikers yet, but considering how spectacular this was, and that it was a Saturday, there still wasn’t too many.

This place was largely inaccessible to the average day hiker.After descending Jackass, we stopped for afternoon tea by Temple Lake. Astounded that we’d only hiked 13 miles when by this time usually we’d be 17/20 miles deep.

We marched on to the last climb which may have well been vertical. It was bloody hot and I was a sweaty stinky mess. It took an age and mosquitos were inhaled on most inward breaths.

Eventually we came across the snow chute on the top of the pass and managed to sneak up the side of it, before traversing across the flattest part from left to right which brought us out on top. Texas Pass.

We descended down the steepest slope ever, on thin slippy gravel. It demanded quite a dollop of focus not to slip (any more than I did, which was twice).

At the base we collected water and ate pasta and mash potato. I chopped my last spring onion into the potato and it was divine. Well, it was nice, divine might be a stretch too far.

During dinner Bear met an attractive blonde day hiker who was not in the least bit interested in a stinky viking hiker man, regardless, he turned into a 12 year old puppy boy and demanded we hike on 2 more miles to Shadow Lake where she was camping.

We had no interest in this extra 2 miles, but the treeline (which we were currently above) happened to be at Shadow Lake. So we hiked on while Bear skipped like a child.

We needed trees to hang food.

Having made it to the lake at dusk, Bear decided no romance was to occur.
We picked the first flat spot we came across.

Snakes sorted the tent while we went to hang food.

18.2 miles on the day.

Day 92: Lakes
We wake just before we need to, and spent a good 4 minutes telling each other that we’re tired.
Eventually, having sat upright, I reach for the big grey dry bag at my feet, which contains my clothes.
One of us must sit mid tent, while the other sits at the head end so we can change simultaneously, usually in silence.
The pillow is deflated. This is a sad time.
Thermals off, hiking clothes on.
Thermals, sleeping bag liner and pillow go in the grey dry bag and it is sealed tight.
Our socks and gaiters are removed from the drying line Snakes tied to our roof and slipped into.
I span to the door, unzip it and put on my shoes.
The side pocket of the tent is emptied of phone, sun glasses, bear spray and tent peg bag.
I wearily test my balance as I stand.

Everything is packed in the same place, every day. Any upset and a domino effect of things are thrown off.

Our bags are packed and the tent down in minutes, especially today as there is an army of mosquitos awaiting us.

We darted out of camp along Shadow Lake and into one of the most glorious mornings on trail. Gently downhill, striking views of valleys and smug rivers sat among easy hillside.

We moved fast.

A short climb lead us to a stunning plateau, full of sweet honey smelling wildflowers, on which, we ate breakfast.

I’m quick to slap out the mat, plonk myself down and get to work mixing creamer into water, pouring in a mammoth portion of granola and shoveling it into my mouth before Snakes has even sat down.

Once finished I connect the stove the gas and boil water for coffee. The filter is set and more coffee than we need spooned into the aeropress. I make two espressos and top them up with more water.

We take our time from here.

When breakfast is over, I begin to look forward to lunch.

We hiked on and the day carried on impressing us with ridiculously beautiful lakes and vistas.

We met 6 South bound CDT hikers today. Cripes they have a way to go.

During lunch we discussed an alteration to our plan as per advice given by a Southbounder:

By the end of tomorrow we’d be in Pinedale, having taken a 14 mile detour off the CDT to get to a road. That’s 14 miles which get us no closer to Canada. We’d then resupply and have to do those same non CDT 14 miles back to the CDT.

And they aren’t flat miles.

Or, we could hike an extra day heading north and get to a campground where we hope we’d get a hitch, directly off the trail into Pinedale.

So, 28 unnecessary miles but be in town tomorrow, or stay out an additional day and be in town later, but 34 trail miles ahead.

Do we have enough food?

Not for the ideal meals we’d like, but we could stretch it…..

We hiked on with all this in mind, leaning toward doing the extra day and wishing we’d panned for it before, food wise.

We powered through a small thunderstorm and made it to sunshine where we drank tea. Then didn’t want to leave.

We pushed on 4.4 more miles half way up the climb to Hat Pass, the goal was to get to the top today to reduce the climbing for tomorrow.

We took a break for dinner, and much to our surprise Noodle appeared on trail.

He’d left a day before us so we’d thought he was in front..

As it transpired, Girly Girl had suffered terribly with her back on the Cirque alternate, so they had to drop off it to a lodge where she managed to get a hitch to Pinedale and would recover (hopefully) and await the noodle.

We chit chatted through dinner, then Noodle pushed on.

Bear, Snakes and I left later and made it to just below Hat Pass which was a stunning rentrant camp spot, covered in wildflowers.I hung our sacks and Snakes set up camp. We’re speeding up at all of this bear routine.

Just as we got into camp, it be an to rain, then pour, then absolutely pelt it down.

Thunder and lightning began, which is probably my biggest fear on trail. It felt as though the lightening was in the tent.

It was incredibly close.Tents are pretty shitty places to be in storms. If lightening strikes the ground our helpless bodies laying flat against it will soak up the bolt.

The trick is, not to be the highest things around, and not to be near fences and metal objects. There were certainly higher things than us, but this made it no less terrifying.

We were both exhausted and unable to sleep through genuine fear of death.

26 miles on the day

Day 93: Altitude

We woke, so didn’t die.

On trail and climbing the last 0.3 miles of Hat Pass by 7am.

Snakes, as you’ll remember had an operation on her foot just before leaving for the trail. Until now her juicy scar and healing wound has caused little in the way of pain, today it was inflated and throbbing.

The first 2 miles over the pass and down took 2 hours. Once the pain relievers kicked in, things improved.We initially had three steep short climbs to get over. These were all wildly stunning. Wildflowers and ominous rocky crags blended together.

We made it over 2/3 climbs before breakfast where Snakes elevated her leg and drank super strong coffee.

We half dried the tent from last night’s tsunami.

Noodle crept up on us from above and happily joined us for a few miles until his turn off to Pinedale (he had to do that extra 14 off-trail miles which we were avoiding, as he’d run out of food).

Soon after he left we crossed a large wide river which was most refreshing. There we began our ascent of Lester Pass.

It was a lot easier than I’d anticipated though at 11, 550 feet, Snakes, was back in the death zone. She coped well of course, and other than about 45 second when she crawled onto the grass and lay in a fetal position, we made it to the top without breaks or issues.

The views were so beautiful, I didn’t quite believe them.

We had a Conservative lunch on the top, now we were stretching food for the this extra 20 mile day.

We plummeted off the pass into an actual wonderland. Words will do no good. It was just magical.

We couldn’t not swim in a lake which looked so much like a clear blue pool.

The temperature was delectable and we felt nothing short of amazing afterwards. So much so that a day hiker said I looked too clean to be a CDT hiker.

Bear caught us at the swim spot, and took a dip himself.

We powered on through some of the best hiking I’ve ever experienced.

We stopped for an early supper by a rather fetching river and of course surrounded by wildflowers.

Bear shared his cereal bars to help stretch our food even further. Which was most kind.

Snakes ate like a snake, food bigger than her. Pasta, noodles, hot chocolate, a Milky Way bar, then bear offered her a boiled sweet and she rounded things off with a straight spoonful of his peanut butter. What a fatty.

2 more of the finest miles you’ve ever known to camp. This could be a place of worship, cathedrals towering above the most peaceful meadow of wildflower. Have I mentioned the wildflowers?

We were well above treeline and it would be 4 more miles to drop into it, so we decided to tie our bear bags around a huge boulder and hope this was deterrent enough.

The bear bags are designed to eliminate the need to hang them from a tree (as we have been), they are to be hung just at shoulder height on a tree so if a bear finds it, it can’t move it, or penetrate it. This national park doesn’t recognise that as sufficient so let’s hope a ranger isn’t strolling by between now and 5am.

19.3 miles on the day

Day 94: Pinedale

The alarm woke us at 5:00am.

It wasn’t quite light enough to see, and heading off to collect the bear bags alone was mildy worrying.

Once packed up, off we went, three little head torches moving silently up to the plateau.
For the next mile we were in a big bad ass boulder valley, rock hopping along to Cube Rock pass, and descending steeply down the other side.

A couple of sketchy snow traverses brought us back to the trail which gently descended down the valley further.Thoughts had now rightly or wrongly turned to the finish and how that might feel, that and a lot of chat about how much we were going to eat once in town today.

We found a rather stupendous breakfast spot. I was down to a cereal bar and instant coffee, but it was most enjoyable.

The rest of the day was largely downhill and flat, which was a kind gesture from the trail, which usually picks the hardest route up everything.

We passed our pal Baby food, walking south as he’d left his emergency beacon on trail somewhere. Bums.

We saw more Southbounders today than ever before, unfortunately stopping and chatting was eating into valuable being in town time.

We arrived at the campground at 2:30pm, record time for 20 miles.

We didn’t know how easy or likely a hitch would be from here on a weekday, it was an hour to the main road and and even further to Pinedale.

The first car leaving stopped for us and ‘Grandma’ drove us the hour dirt road out of the campground. She was hard of hearing, and so made things easier by turning her head a full 180 to look at us when we spoke, while driving.

We stopped just before the road became paved, at her family cabin where we met the entirety of her family and drank a beer with her husband before she drove us the 30 minutes more into Pinedale.

Straight to the brewery on arrival where we sat in a haze of exhaustion and ordered many beige things on the menu.

Spooky, Girly, and Cliff joined the three of us.

We received good news from Maps that her father was doing well after his operation and we would likely see her the following weekend in Dubois.

Snakes managed to get us an Air bnb as all the hotels were super pricey, the owner of the place happened to be in the brewery and so have us a lift to it.

It was glorious.

20 miles on the day.

Day 95: Zero 13?

After a few hours lounging about and drinking coffee, we walked to town and met the gang for a hearty breakfast.

We’d arrived in town via the postal office where we’d picked up THREE amazing care packages. What lucky girls we are. THANK YOU dearest Vanessa, Emma and Mother you all totally excelled yourselves.

Emma provided a full spa session and Vanessa and Mum, many treats. Not to mention a new bra. Hallelujah.

From here I landed in the brewery with Bear and Flip Flop, while Snakes resupplied. I had some important blogging to not be able to do due to the total lack of upload potential of the horrible WiFi. Eventually I gave up and ordered more beer.

Snakes joined us after resupplying and sending a food box ahead to Lima. Flip Flop, now fully lubricated, provided everyone with 2 shots of Fireball, which is cinnamon whiskey and should be sipped as it is delectable.

We managed to peel ourselves away around 4pm and walk to the grocery store to by fresh goods for the next stretch and lasagna materials for tonight. I stuck my thumb out for a lift for the 2 miles walk back to the accommodation, the first car who saw us stopped and drove us up the hill.

Snakes got to work packing our food bags and sorting gear while I made a massive lasagne.

We watched our third Melissa McCarthy film of the trip, ‘The Heat’, if you haven’t seen this yet, and you have a sense of humor, I urge you to watch it.

During this we applied an avocado face mask, sent to us by the unbelievable Emma Cope.

Next up we’re all three episodes of the New Black mirror followed and we feel to bed around midnight.

An excellent zero day if you ask me. Which you didn’t.

Day 96: Leaving Pinedale

There was a sufficient amount of swanning around this morning. Coffee was drunk, lasagna was eaten and I was highly unsuccessful at ordering new shoes and a sleeping bag liner due to amazon being a frustrating pile of crap.

We walked to town and I swiftly bought new disgusting shoes from the outdoor store. Half the price online, but remember, Amazon was a pile of crap this morning.

We met Bear outside Family Dollar. The first hitch came within 10 minutes, they weren’t going to the trail but could take us as far as our first junction. We three piled into the back, packs and all and almost before it was too late, I noticed the baby on the back seat.

Bear is not a small man, and I am no fairy. I certainly felt uncomfortable with the proximity to which both our bodies and our obnoxious rucksacks were to this 4 month old child.

The two in the front had no concerns.

They dropped us on the road and we readied ourselves for the next hitch which came within 7 minutes. Annie drove us as far as the post office 10 miles up the road.

We stood at the next spot for a short while before an old man pulled over to let us know he didn’t have time to give us a ride. He did stop and have a 20 minute chat with bear though, that was something he had time for.

Another couple stopped, and after hearing where we needed to go (further than they were going) had a small argument over whether or not they should take us. At the verge of feeling slightly uncomfortable they decided they would take us 5 more miles out of their way to the beginning of the dirt road. They then rearranged their entire vehicle to make room for us.

After this third lift and as we pulled over to get out, our hitch host presented us with afghan cookies. I’ve no idea what makes them afghan but by jove they were good.

On a whirlwind of moving packs and eating cookies, and before the last hitch had even departed, the waitress from the brewery approached us as asked of we needed a ride to the campground, another 30 minutes up the road. We piled in the truck with Ali, Amy and Emily who were off to the lake for a day of kayaking. She’d recognised us from the bar and demanded she helped. So I guess day time drinking pays off.

She offered us beer, Snakes declined and opted for the margarita instead.

All in all a 1.5 hr hitch took us about 2 hours including waiting for rides. Which is pretty darn good.

We started out on trail, 7 miles of uphill and thunder looming and circling.
We made it about 3 miles before the first storm, then 5 miles before there was less than 1 second between lightening and thunder. At this point we dived I to some pine trees and sat in the rain waiting it out. My umbrella is my best friend in this situation and does a lot to keep off the rain, which at this point would penetrate pretty much anything.

Except skin, it can’t penetrate that.

It eased and we hiked on, cold but soon to warm up during the steepest part of the hill to the top of Gunsight Pass. We had a small storm less window. Which we made it over the top and skooted down the other side toward the safety of the trees

.It began to rain once again and we stopped in another pine sheltered hove to quickly cook and eat dinner, still under our wonderful umbrellas.

We hiked on into faint sunshine, another 2.8 miles before setting up camp.

I did a mega high beer hang, then remembered my toothpaste once I’d returned to the tent. I hid it under a log. Bears cant lift logs.

10.8 miles on the day.

Day 97: Southbounders

I woke extremely tired. It rained through the night and putting on sodden shoes was certainly not joy educing. I went for the bear bags, unharmed and hanging wet in the trees.

The important bits of kit remained dry thanks to our super duper dry bags, but all the periphery kit was wet through, including our rucksacks.

We made it out of camp by 7am and were encouraged by the easy morning terrain. Unfortunately I was unable to stop damaging myself for the next 7 miles. It just wasn’t my day. I scraped myself over blow downs, bashed my ankle on logs and cut my hand on barbed wire. My morning alleviation was interrupted most aggressively by F*#&”NG mosquitoes and we had three wet river crossings which dampened my shoes further.

We stopped for breakfast after 7 miles and hung everything we owned to dry on trees. Coffee did a lot to aid my mood.

Onward, spotting deer, Prong Horns and many cows. We watched 2 Chipmunks chase each other for a few minutes, totally oblivious to how they entertained us.

We took the Leeds Creek Alternate, it paralleled the CDT but supposedly one could see the Tetons from this route, we couldn’t, but we did get a splendid 360 degree view of mountains for most of the way. We stopped for lunch by a lonely tree and completed the drying of the tent.

We both packed out a sourdough baguette which was a nice change from wraps.

A short while after lunch we met old acquaintances Etchasketch and Dyno DNA, we’d not seen them since Cuba New Mexico, as shortly after they got off trail to flip up to Wyoming because of the snow. There was still snow IN Wyoming at his point, so they flipped again to Canada and began to hike south.

NOBO = northbound
SOBO = southbound
SNOWBO = flipped due to snow and now going south

The rest of the day was pleasant and easy terrain. We made it about 20 miles before our afternoon tea and had met SOBO’S Twiggy and Toast who gave us a spicy ball of some description (to eat) and Smooth who was heading North alone.

We stopped at a magnificent spring at 24 miles and hiked another mile to eat in a sensual meadow as the sun set.

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Luckily we bumped into Wonder Woman and Dirty Bowel who informed us the post office in Lander (which we needed) would be closed from 12:45pm tomorrow (Saturday ) We were currently 17 miles from the highway from which we would hitch into Lander.

Because of their smashing advice, we hiked until 9:30pm, and made it 13 miles from that highway and set the alarm or 5:30am to race to Lander.

I’ve had an inordinate amount of trouble with this last post, so much so that I’ve come to hate this stupid little blog. and my shitty little phone. Rather than moan at you some more, i’m going to leave this post here, having spent what feels like 12 years trying to sort this post – and tell you allllll about our trip into Lander next time, and yet more about my trials and tribulations with stupid town chores.

See ya. x