Week 15: The Salmon will run, no damn can hold

Dubois to LimaAugust 10th to August 21stMiles: 211Day 97 continued: SothboundersOh hello again.To pick up where I’d left off, we’d hiked until late (9:30pm) to reduce tomorrow’s miles into Dubois.It was much darker than I felt comfortable with and just as I saw some of the first bear poops on the trail, I also read on the app that a grizzly had been sighted just north of where we were.Anxiety began to set in and we dicided to set up camp. I was pleased Bear (the hiker) decided to stop too. He speaks in an octive much lover than us.I set up the shoddiest bear hang yet, primarily because it was hard to see where I was throwing the rope, but also because I was tired and rushing it.When hung, I, at 5’4 could probably run and jump and touch the bags, so a bear would have limited difficulty.To make matters worse, I’d forgotten to hang my food pot, Snakes assured me it would be fine to leave it in the tent, I in turn assured her that her assurance was based on nothing at all, and so went and stashed it under a log, remember, bears can’t find hidden objects.I was now pretty on edge about the stashed pot to my north, the shitty bear hang to the south and the proximity to which we’d camped to the trail (i.e. right next to it). Bears use the trails to move around, so camping away from them is advised.Needless to say my sleep was broken.28 miles on the dayDay 98: DuboisWe woke to the 5:00am alarm. (remember, we’re trying to get to the post office before 12:45pm).It was still dark out and I was pretty nervous walking to get my pot, still where I left it in the genius under-log hiding place.We packed up and walked down the trail to get the bear bags.It was still dark when we left. It’s not advised to hike in the dark as bears don’t have great eyesight and startling them is a sure way to piss them off.I knew Dirty Bowl and Wonder Woman were camped nearby, there were also signs of other Southbounders too, so while I was overly conscious of the need to make noise to warn the bears, I was also concerned about waking other hikers.My need to remain alive won over and I loudly whooped my way down the trail.The trail was patchy and tough to follow. We saw the reflections of some signs, lit by our torches which was helpful, until they ended. We followed a cow path for some time before I realised this was not the correct direction.Darkness, bear watch, rocky and marshy terrain, tricky trail and the need to constantly navigate made for a strenuous morning.The sun came up before long and slowly warmed us up. We’ve certainly noticed a slight change in temperature over the last week.Winter is sauntering along towards us.I noticed a spectacular bushwack shortcut which reduced our mileage by 1.3. Hoorah.We finished up on a dirt road and marched toward the highway.Bumping into 3 Southbounders, 2 of which were Mouse and Gravy, who we hadn’t seen since Ghost Ranch (that weird retreat in New Mexico).Just before the highway we caught Taz Baz, remember him? Of course you do. He’d camped by the road and intended to zero in Dubois. He also thought we were a day behind and that we’d never catch him. Wrong.No doubt he was excited for a ball-busting from the British girls.Wonder Woman and Dirty Bowl were just behind and we managed to get a hitch in together as a 4. (Taz Baz moves like he’s on holiday in the mornigs and still had to pack up his tent, read the morning newspaper scramble some eggs and generally swan about).You’ll be extremely impressed to know we made it 13 miles by 9:45 and therefore to the post office before it closed at 12:45pm. Thank goodness. We bounced our bounce boxes further ahead, North to Lima where we may need warmer clothes. If you don’t open the box you can do this for free.We also picked up an weighty care package from Daisy, which heavens above, was full to the brim of condements. I was most exited for Salad Cream. We were also treated to face masks, chocolate and toothpaste. This was most exciting.We walked to the family dollar and resupplied in record time.I was abolutley the kind of child who would do all her homework on Friday so I could fully enjoy the weekend.We met Taz Baz and walked with him to the Cowboy cafe where I spent most of the time on an online chat with 3 (my phone provider) who assured me they would fix the issues with my phone (not getting any signal in towns) because my happiness is most important to them and they would not want to further agrivate a loyal customer such as myself. While they fixed the issue, they also offered to waive my phone bill for the next month. Splendid.Maps arrived and filled us in on what it’s like to be a hiker in an inappropriate setting, like on an areoplane after 90 miles and no shower. It was good to see her back on trail.We dropped our luggage in the Church, as they let hikers stay there for a donation. There were cot beds and coffee.Next we sauntered to the outdoor store to buy gas. They didn’t sell sleeping bag liners, which I was in desperate need of as all mine is now good for is several silk hankies. The liner adds a few degrees of warmth and a protective filth barrier to my sleeping bag. I’ll have to be without for a little while.Next was laundry. We had coin operated showers at the laundromat which were handily disgusting so it was in the users best interest to be quick, thus not spending too much in the way of coins.

A fairly dramatic entrance wouldn’t you say?

Laundromat wifi is usually the best in town, though still not good enough for me to complete my blog, as it hadn’t been in Pinedale. I left Snakes to finish up with the dryer while I sped to the library to post last week’s installment.I was warmly welcomed by a lovely lady. Again, no ID, no forms, just sit down at a computer.The next 3 hours were a total nightmare and the kind of hideous and real life tech issues which I absolutely do not miss.I began to feel total exhaustion from our 13 mile march into town and 5am start, and the last how-ever long staring at a computer screen. I absolutely wanted to weep in dispare.But weep I did not.I persevered and all ended, just about OK.I walked at a very fast pace to the bar where I found Taz Baz, Maps, Snakes and Baby Food drinking 8% IPA.Snakes, in my abcence, had got to work sorting our camping permits for Yellowstone National Park, which was our next section.Hikers must buy a permit to camp within the park, we would be there for three nights.She was also issued a lengthy, obligatory and informative telephone chat about bears, how to behave during an encounter (be polite and give it all your food) what to do if it charges (which is a common occurance) where not to camp (everywhere) and to only ever run when it begins to eat you.Cool.We remained in the bar for some time before leaving for ‘The Outlaw Saloon’ which Flip Flop’s hitch advised we all stay well away from.

It remained this blurry all night.

Probably the biggest dive bar we’ve been in so far, hikers probably just about outnumbered locals, which didn’t have any baring on the preparedness of the locals to start a big fat brawl over a minor brushing past of one, by the other. I imagine this was business as usual. Baby food had a hand in breaking up said brawl, which I found to be most exciting and impressive.

Snakes and I escaped at a reasonable hour after a jolly evening, the rest continued for some time, returning to the church where I’m sure at least all of them fell over at least once.I didn’t mind being woken, I was dreaming of bears anyway.Day 99: Leaving DuboisDubois means ‘of the water’, naturally the Americans pronounce it ‘doo boys’.We were awake by bloody 7am. I’m just unble to remain or return to sleep.I made coffee and we ally packed our belongings, cleaned pots and sorted food supplies.Soon everyone was awake, going about their business.We left the church before 9am and went to the Cowboy Cafe once more for breakfast. Soon the place was overrun by locals and hikers in equal numbers and there was a large queue for a table.The Southbounders meet the Northbounders and it seemed we’d all merged in this cafe, today.It was here that I reached, one of my lowest moments on trail.Town was overwhelming, there were far too many people, I was highly hormonal and utterly exhausted.I didn’t want to leave and I didn’t want to stay.My stomach hurt and my eyes were so heavy.I missed my family, I miss my brother.Snakes guided me from the masses to a quiet spot off the main road.She suggested we could stay, but I knew that would be no good…Before long we were in a hitch and leaving town.We sat on the bed in the back of an RV and I desperately wanted to sleep.We picked up Wonder Woman too en route, she was off to visit her brother in a nearby town.Our hitch dropped us 27 miles up the road, back to the trail. We wanted 11 miles at least. It was 13:30.Luckily my low moments last less than an hour, withing 17 minutes I felt immediately better. Tired still, hormonal too, but so much better for moving, being outside and working towards the Canadian goal once again.We met Southbounders Soda, from London and while chatting Baby Food caught up to us.We hiked on, Snakes and I and were alone for the rest of the day, chatting mostly.We stopped for a cup of tea and lunch by the river.It was an easy day, terrain wise and we made it 15.1 miles, more than we hoped for.I hung our food ridiculously high in a tree.15.1 miles on the day.Day 100: Remember snakes?We woke to frost on the tent. It’s STILL August.Today was over 5000m of ascent, I wasn’t sure how far we’d make it but we needed a minimum of 23 miles as by tomorrow, our permits for specific campgrounds within Yellowstone would be active.After packing up and successfully acquiring the bear bags we met a fellow Northbound hiker, Pretzel. We hiked with him for all of about 29 minutes before he sped up to achieve his 37 mile day. I’d told him of our breakfast banquet routine, this was not something he could afford to stick around for.We walked on, and up, through pink lupin meadows and dead leafless trees in a burn area.We’re still seeing many Southbound hikers throughout the day. An inordinate amount in fact.Lunch arrived at 12 miles and Merlin, who we’d met in Chama (New Mexico) arrived too. He’d flipped up to Canada to avoid the snow. He seemed less than happy and spent about 26 minutes sharing his stories of unhappiness from the last few months. Then left.The next few miles directed us up a big valley, we passed two horse camps. One chap came over to tell us his friend had seen a grizzly that morning. He’d missed the sighting himself as he’d been running to get his gun.I read somewhere that encounters with grizzlys where guns had been involved ended a lot worse that where they hadn’t. Apparently its a sure way to piss a bear off.We stopped for tea at 18 miles. After hiking about 10 minutes after tea, we bumped into Pappa Oats, a Snowbo’er we’d last seen in Cuba New Mexico! We chatted for almost an hour. Damn.I saw a snake. I’d been so focused on bears I’d forgotten about Snakes. (Not Shelley but actual Snakes you understand…)Eventually we got back into a rhythm, but today I had achey legs and was growing tired. Nothing like some geeky geography to pep me up! After 5 more miles we came across ‘the Parting of the Waters’ a rare and strange occurance where the tributary of the aptly named North Two Ocean Creek’ splits. Half of it flows to the Pacific and half to the Atlantic. Cool hey!?With a fire of excitement in me, and after 23 miles, we began our last and steepest and longest climb of the day. Jolly good.After one of four miles climbing we stopped for Spanish rice, which wasn’t quite enough to fill me up.Just as we were packing up we saw 8 Southbound hikers. One of whom, again, we’d met in New Mexico. Its frightfully exciting meeting someone you know, you know?We chugged on up the steep hill.0.8 miles before the top, and at 8:30pm, we decided to stop and set up camp lest the trees ran out and we found ourselves on a barren windy summit as night fell. We found a lovely little spot off trail, and away from water. Splendid.25.1 miles on the day.Day 101: Entering YellowstoneIt was unsurprising, given that we’d camped at 10,000 feet that we woke up to a thick layer of frost on our tent.The mornings are taking longer to warm up and we leave camp with an extra layer and our wool hats and gloves on.It was less than a mile to the top of the climb where we could peek on the Tetons through the trees.A magnificent looking range of teets that’s I would love to come back and walk about in.We had a steep descent through thick woodland then broke out onto the valley floor where thick due lay waiting on overhanging brush, taller than me. We inched through the tunnels of moisture trying to remain dry, but to no avail, we were birthed from it all, cold and damp.Down even further and we found a sunny spot at 6.7 miles for breakfast.It was here that the terrible news hit me, I’d lost my spoon.I lost my spoon on the Pacific Crest Trail too, and remember 3 miserable days trying to replicate it impossibly.I lay all my hopes in meeting a hiker who has a spare.We went on. I sang songs of heartbreak but changed the lyrics as an ode to my spoon.After a short time we came across this sign:One feels as though a fanfare or such like should sound as we walk through, that there should be a souvenir shop leaflets and a tea room, but, no such luck. Snakes expected teenagers with trays around their necks, selling popcorn and candy, maybe also selling big foam hands.We hiked a few more undulating miles to a lunch spot. Yet again, everything was brought into the light to dry.We ate megre wraps, one each and some of my favourites, Combos. The thought of wraps now makes me feel grim.Not only do hikers need a permit for the park, but they also are allocated specific camp spots. From here on in and for the next 4 nights, the location of the end of our day was decided already.Because we’d hiked more miles the last two days than expected, today was a mere 21 mile day. We’re at the point at which this feels like a ‘light’ day.By lunch therefore, we only had 8.6 more miles to hike.I think we came in Yellowstones backdoor, the boot room perhaps. The trees we 50% dead or fallen, it had an apocalyptic feel about it.The flowers though, as ever stealing all the attention and driving ones focus from the bigger picture onto the smaller.We made tea by 3:30 with 3 miles left to camp. This is one of my favourite times of day and although the ascent had been easy going today, my legs were feeling yesterday’s big climbs.Our designated campsite 8C5, was little more than a flat patch with a fire ring and a pole for hanging food.The pole for food, the cooking area and the sleeping area were all worryingly close together. I felt our personal stringent bear procedure was more facdideous than the parks requirements. Or maybe I’m overly causious?We made a fire to keep the mosquitoes at bay. Which didn’t work at all.I had a quick dip wash in the river and we revelled in being in camp over 2 hours earlier than normal.Bear (the hiker) and Baby Food turned up after 10pm and scared the poop put of me.21 miles on the day.Day 102: Grant VillageIt was bloody cold when we woke up.We packed up and left by 7am, even though we had only 15 miles to Grant Village, we didn’t want to hang about.The terrain was markedly dull and soulless, bar the inordinate amount of chipmunks running around. We breakfasted at 6.4 miles with a small view. I’d an inkling things were going to get more exciting from here.A few miles on and we sprung out on a huge and very beautiful lake. We resisted swimming as there was rumours of a hot spring ahead.Some of the creeks run cold and some run hot, so one has to be careful what they drink. We arrived a the hot river, and wasted no time sinking into it. The banks were lined with mint, which made for nice aromas while we soaked our festering corpses.6 more miles and en route the volcanic pools were bubbling and steaming.We climbed up a small hill and walked the last 3 miles to the road. Meeting two rangers on route who asked to see our permit. Snakes duely presented the email she was sent when booking and this was most sufficient.From here we could hitch into Grant Village, a small ‘town’ in the middle of Yellowstone.We got a hitch with little time wasted and went straight for the restaurant. Normal amounts of food now fill us up so fast and we end up suffering in a huge food coma before too long.Our options from here were to stay overnight at the campground, or hitch back to the trail and walk 8 more miles to our designated campsite.We waddled down to the visitor centre to see if we could swap our campsite to one 5 miles out as a compromise. 5 miles sounded much more doable than 8.We were greeted by an elderly married couple, donned head to toe in spanky ranger outfits with trousers pulled well above the navel.The husband, was most welcoming and did his best to serve us, while being talked over officiously by his wife. Snakes soon entered in to a hilarious and direct conversation with the man’s wife (now known as Miss Yellowstone) who was most upset that we hadn’t come to see her to obtain our paperwork (permits). We explained that when we booked the permits on the phone, we were 100 miles away and assured that the email permit we received (and the one we showed her) would be sufficient.But no, Miss Yellowstone would like everyone in the entire national park to come to her desk and be shouted at by her please.When we asked her why, she didn’t have anything close to a reason.I then asked for her to issue us the golden paperwork and she told us ‘I’ll let it go this time’.I gently asked, if it was so very important that we carry paper copies of the permit we already have on our phone, why would she be ‘letting it go this time’?She wasn’t sure about that either.Anyway, the 5 miles campground was apparently booked by one group and we would have to walk 8 miles to our official site or stay in Grant.We left, giggling.Another elderly couple ran the laundromat and took a wonderful amount of pride in it. We paid for an oddly priced shower and one towel split between us, (showers were $4.76 and the towel $1.33) washed our horrible selves then laundered our horrible things while eating a pint of ice cream. I bought the ice cream solely for the spoon that came with it.Bear arrived and had bought us wine to pack out. Even though he was staying here in Grant Village. What a guy.We packed up, conscious of the time (now 6pm) and rushed to get a hitch.By 6:05 we were in the back of a pick up and soon back to trail.6:15pm, 8 miles to go.We walked while playing the capitals game (this is my favourite game) and within what felt like no time at all, we arrived at the 5 miles campground. No one was there. So, not booked out. Thanks Miss Yellowstone.It was 8pm, we liked the idea of fewer miles tomorrow so hiked on. We passed the shoreline of the lake, walked along it then had to wade across the inlet which was knee deep and very refreshing.was conscious of the light, now fading, I didn’t like walking in grizzly land at all, let alone at night and a bear hang becomes more difficult when vision does too.We made it to camp by 9pm, smashing timing and dark was just turning to pitch black.Snakes set up camp and I hung the food, we were in bed by 9:30 feeling most pleased with our endeavours.We could now look forward to a lay in, and a 13 mile day tomorrow.23 miles on the day.Day 103: Lone Star GyserI’ve been missing Dylan a considerable amount of late.And more than that, I’ve been noticing the absolutleness of his absence. The finality of it. That he isn’t with me, in the sky or anywhere at all.The cathartic nature of walking allows me to dive so far into a placid sea of memories. I’ll be gone for a while, miles and miles. Small gems of childhood I was sure I’d forgotten, all swirling around me as if I am right there with him.When I come up for air on the surface of reality, I’m struck like it’s the first time, reminded once more that he is dead and I will never see him again.Of late, when I feel the pull of the deep ocean, when the trail is silent enough for me to dive in, I resist and force my thoughts elsewhere. I avoid him because I can’t bear to come back to reality and be reminded once again. And then I feel guilty for avoiding him.Am I avoiding grief, or is this it?We lay in until 8, our latest start yet.The beauty of arriving at camp in the dark?We were walking by 8:30 and had an immediate and horfifficly cold river crossing. My feet were numb for a good while afterwards.We agreed on an easy 4 miles until breakfast, as we only had 13 miles to walk today. We made it 5.1 as there was a lake which was far more suitable a spot than the woods.We enjoyed a luxurious 2 hour breakfast by the lake. I caught up on writing this, and Snakes was drawing.Eventually we packed up and ambled on, swiftly coming to 200 meters of pure stinking bog. We’d been warned about leeches here so tried to move through the egg stench quickly. Both of us were submerged to our thighs in brown.Fortuitously, there was a clear river just after the ordeal, in which we could rinse and check for leeches.Unharmed we moved on into an area where straying off the trail would result in a $5000 fine, maybe 6 months in jail and possibly death. It was the Yellowstone Gysers.Bubble bubble toil and trouble. Here the earth has its say and vents.We moved on, back into thick woodland where we chatted through the time line of events in our lives since 2016. It turns out we have no clear idea on the order of things.We stopped for lunch 3.5 miles from camp. This, really is how hiking should be done.On the way to camp we bumped into Hurro, who we began this hike with and hadn’t seen since Lordsburg, the first town stop. He was now hiking South, which explains why we’d heard neither hide nor hair of him since New Mexico.We arrived at 3:30pm. as a thunderstorm was rolling overhead. We made a quick cup of tea and performed the ultimate sin, tea and biscuits inside our tent. I hope all bears were sheltering from the storm and had no interest in us and our oreos.We hid in the warmth of our tent while all hell broke loose outside.Eventually it cleared. At 5:30 we packed a bag of essentials including dinner and the wine from bear and hiked 0.4 miles to see the Lone Star Gyser, supposedly one of the better Gysers in the area.We sat in prime spots and waited for the major eruption.We’d heard it blows around every three hours.By 6:00 we had a minor eruption and by 6:27 it was going menal. Super loud and super high. What a sight.We finished up our wine and hurried back to camp, just in the nick of time before the next storm blew in. Timings today, couldn’t have been better.Flip Flop had arrived in the meantime and soon after Bear, Maps, Baby Food and Cliff were all tucked up in a cute little tent huddle.13 miles on the very chilled day.Day 104: Old FaithfulSnakes and I were first out of camp, 4 incredible quick miles into Old Faithful, our legs powered by the notion of the all you can breakfast buffet.We made a quick stop at the general store where everything is somewhere beyond expensive. A 1.7 day resupply cost the same as a 4 day in a normal town.Old Faithful is the gateway to Yellowstone National Park, home to the Old Faithful gyser, unsurprisingly less impressive than the one you have to walk 4 miles out to, which we had all to ourselves last night.After the resupply of food, we went to the Old Faithful Inn.It’d cost close to $300 dollars to stay here for the night, so we opted for the $14 breakfast buffet instead. The building was a magnificent old structure, somewhat reminiscent of the hateful eight.We were far too poor and smelly to be as warmly welcomed as we were.The power sockets were quickly loaded up, and all our things spread about the place.I was doing my best to transport myself onto an Agatha Christie novel.Soon Maps, Bear, Cliff, Baby Food and Flip Flop arrived.Some of us had post to collect and post cards to write, Snakes and I went to sort our food bags, Baby Food took advantage of the free showers on offer (while we passed on this opportunity for some unknown reason, like, being comfortable within our own grime now).Flip Flop hung about for the lunch buffet which we heard was better than breakfast.Snakes and I left first, the hike out was along the boardwalk, joined with many other tourists, passed the incredible gysers.Their eruptions are predicted pretty accurately and while some go off every day, others blow their tops every hour.The mineral content in the gyser and the heat of the water has transformed parts of the park into a desert landscape.On route, Snakes finally found her gift shop, full of bear, bison, gyser related wonderment, yet she realised she could only afford the weight (and cost) of a small pin badge, which she was very pleased with.As soon as the trail began to climb, the tourists dissappeared and we were alone again.The climb was steep and short, and lead us to a flat plateau which we happily walked until a late lunch at 2pm by Summit Lake, which we also had all to ourself, like most things on trail.We dried the tent and ate bagels and fresh tomato, bought from Old Faithful for probably $10 a piece.We powered on, 6 more miles to the border of Idaho and Wyoming.Another big milestone for us. Naturally we celebrated with a cup of tea and pastries snatched from this mornings buffet.We pushed on to the border of Yellowstone National Park, where we were back to wild camps of our own choosing.The decision was made to stop here for dinner and hope some of the others arrived in the meantime.Just as Snakes was writing them a note on an entirely inappropriate peice of wood, Maps and Flip Flop arrived and interpreted the note quite differently, which left little hope for the rest.They marched on ahead of us, taking a different route so hoping for more miles tonight.We made it little further, and hung the sacks, erected the tent and readied ourselves for bed, just before 9pm and dark.I allowed his piercing blue eyes back into mine and swam in thoughts of Dylan for a time. It was so horribly painful.24.3 miles on the dayDay 105 Macks InnI was woken today, rather than my usual 5:55 natural wake up. It was 6:27 and I was exhausted.The pack up went as usual and Bear and Cliff were stirring as we left camp.The trail today is as easy as it gets. Minimal ascent, easy descent and a well worn wide track to follow.We followed directions to a spring off trail, marked by small ciarns, filled up from a tank with water, and performed breakfast. The day was warming very slowly.The remainder of the day was easy and downhill, we made it to Macks Inn, some kind of wierd roadside resort, by 2:30. We walked to the bar and soon Bear, Spooky, and Cliff were with us.2 more miles up the highway, which was pretty unpleasant and we ended up at Sawtelle Mountain resort.5 hikers all got trolleys in the smallest grocery store and executed a quick resupply before heading to the campground.Soon Baby Food, Maps Flip Flop and Family Size (a small German man with a nice beard and a nice calm voice) also arrived.We managed to pursuade the nice man at the campground to let us pitch 7 tents across 2 sites (rather than two tents). It seems odd to pay to stay in our tent, when we camp for free every night, but this one came with a pool, a hot tub, laundry and breakfast, so it was certainly worth the $10 each.We’d not been told anything about bear protocol, and suddenly felt the safety of other people and buildings around us, so satisfied ourselves with tying are bear bags to the tree next to our tents. Totally unjustified.After a heavenly spell in the hot tub and pool, a building which conveniently also held showers, towels and washing machines, we left for food and liquid refreshments at Connie’s.It was Cliffs birthday tomorrow, so there was much to celebrate.When the server, Kitty came to take our order, we told her we are vegetarian and she laughed in our faces (in a nice way). She wished us luck in Idaho. We like Kitty.Baby Food, who is vegan looked forward to blowing her mind with his order.Other than the perfectly good green beans which they battered and served with white heart attack sauce, (which were incredible) the food was just as we’d come to expect, totally boring.

Maps and Cliff being studious.

There was a pretty disgusting poster on the wall about how guns are better than women, a 10 point list including “guns let you go to sleep after you’ve used them” and “guns work normally every single day of the month”. Nice.Welcome to Idaho.We had a fun time and filled Cliff with margaritas.Day 106: Cliff Jumper turns 33We woke to Spooky Noodle informing us that breakfast was included for campers. I’m not sure that it was, but we ate it anyway. Cliff made a waffle and plastered it in butter, Nutella and peanut butter. I watched in awe.We went back to the little tent community and all began packing up and sorting our lives out.Naturally Snakes and I were first to depart, as we hadn’t gone to bed at 2am like some of our dirty stop out friends.It was a 10.5 mile climb up Sawtelle Mountain. We distracted ourselves for a good 3 miles by calling our parents, then made do chatting with each other for the entirety of the climb. So distracted we missed our junction and continued up the hill. It was only due to an ATV (buggie) passing telling us what great progress we’d made, we wouldn’t have checked. Luckily we were only 0.5 in the wrong direction, and I asked if Mr buggie man would drive us back down the hill, which he did, gladly.Off we went again, a half mile before stopping for lunch at the top.We packed out bread for sandwiches as I’ve become allergic to bagels and wraps.The next 5 miles were mostly downhill, we rounded a corner from lunch and suddenly found ourselves in Legends of the Fall, I was playing Brad Pitt, of course.We stopped at the head of a lake for tea and Family Size soon arrived. This particular cup of tea was particularly delicious. I’m not normally a Lipton fan but today, it hit the spot.We had another 2,000 feet to climb in the 4 miles before dinner, my legs were starting to feel it. Luckily talk of Snakes’ plans to set up a music festival on her return kept me entertained.We stopped at beautiful dusk for dinner at the last water for 17.5 miles. Here we filled our tanks and marched on into the evening.We passed Family Size a mile on at a very suitable camp spot on a saddle in the last of the sun. We however, plugged on 2 more miles to a most unsuitable camp spot on a rocky high point, just very slightly off trail. I spent far too long with a bear hang which just would not cooperate.On the first tree, I managed to throw the rope successfully over the branch three times, but lost the rock (on which the end of the rope was tied) mid flight each time. I got it over and eventually and hoisted the sacks only for the banch to break and almost land on me. By this point the rope was a tangled mess and I hated my life.I worked some shoddy hang out in the end and was deeply dissatisfied with it but grew too tired to care.21.8 miles on the day.Day 107: Exhaustion My legs were objecting this morning after yesterday’s hills. We gave ourselves 15 minutes more time ‘meggling’ and didn’t leave camp until 7:15.We began with a 4 mile climb, the sun was already hot, and the ascent was exposed.Snakes told me all about her multifaceted dreams.We made it up and over the top, stopping for breakfast at 5 miles.We were both feeling the extra water in our packs, but, it was worth it for the hydrating coffee with breakfast.With the exhaustion a level of hysteria has set in. Today, Snakes introduced me to her shadow, ‘Crystal’ then began a surprisingly long argument with Crystal as she walked. Supposedly Crystal kept getting in her way.The next few miles were a glorious, exposed ridge walk, we remained high but undulated with the ridge line.As August ends, only splats of purple flowers remain, white is still in full swing and the dying green leaves have turned red. The whole concoction offers a rather fetching view and creates a somewhat autumnal feel.Interrupting a silence, Snakes exclaimed how lucky our belongings were as they get to be carried through this whole journey while we walk them. She suggested our hats get the best deal as they get a good view.I think we need a day off.We descended off the top and stopped for a sandwich lunch under a shade tree. My exhaustion set in further, but the English Mustard provided by Daisy soon pepped me up.After 45 minutes we were walking once again. A rather deluded and forgettable 5 miles brought us to a creek where we stopped for tea. We’d seen a Southbounder, Dan, who’d himself seen no one all day. This suggested our chums were still behind us.Soon Family Size arrived and chatted for a while. He wanted another 10 miles today so tomorrow would be an easy 20.Both pooped and aware of the 4 miles climb ahead we packed up and hobbled on.A mile in Family Size had stopped and offered us some wild raspberries he’d picked. A third of the size as shop bought but two thirds tastier.By the time we reached the top, we were hanging out of our bottoms tired. Possibly the most physically exhausted I’d felt on trail.We cooked up some dinner early and rested our weiry selves while cramming our faces with snacks.We pushed on, taking a small shortcut up and over a saddle rather than looping around a hill unnecessarily. After this we entered a burn area.Desperate to setup camp, but trying to find one not beneath dead trees which may kill us, not by water, far enough off trail not to interest bears and flat enough so we can sleep, proved difficult. Usually Snakes will take 2/4 of these specifications but i’m more of a 3/4 kind of gal.We found something kind of suitable, somewhere and fell into a horizontal position.24.2 miles on the day.Day 108: Lima (like the bean) This morning, most of my parts hurt. I woke at 6:30am, late.We got ourselves together, packed up and hiked on up the hill, passing 2 pairs of Southbounders, who, like most other Southbounders had, told us Montana was hard.It wasn’t long before we passed Family Size breaking down camp, then arrived at our 5 mile breakfast break, sadly at the bottom of a steep looking climb. It was a steep 2.2 mile ascent, not nearly as hard as I’d thought. My legs, though exhausted feel pretty strong uphill.We filled up with water from Rock Spring, our last for 13 miles. There we saw a Peruvian shepherd and his dogs, responsible for the nearby flock of sheep. Sheep were a comforting sound, reminiscent of home, yet, like the cows, it was bizarre to see them in this thick wooded dramatic environment.We followed the ridge once we’d arrived and as such, we’re granted splendid views. To the right (North) Montana looked desert like. Yes, we’d been hiking west again, for some days now. Pretty frustrating when that’s not where Canada is.We trundled along the top then plummeted down the other side passing a fire crew coming up toward us, en route to put out or check out a fire somewhere nearby.We found a flat spot for TWO huge fatboysandwiches.From here we flowed the ridge line, Montana to the right and Idaho to the left, you can put a foot jn in each state.It was 8 miles to the highway, we’d planned on camping nearby and hitching to Lima tomorrow, but we got too close not to hitch and drink beer in town….We got a ride before long, checked into a crappy (amazing) motel in Lima. It looks like bloodstains line the bathtub.We will remain here for at least tomorrow and some of the next day (my birthday).Oakley and I share a birthday (though it’s more mine than hers) she and Wonder Woman are already here, and soon Baby Food, Maps, Flip, Cliff, Spooky, Family Size and Bear will be here. (Some of the boys slept under a bridge as they’re too ugly to get a hitch).The next stretch is a big fat 100 mile toughy, so we must make sure we’re suitabley rested and plyed with beer.