Week 18: When you and sleep escape me

Salmon to Anaconda

September 2nd to September 6th

103 Miles

Day 120: Labour day

We woke in total darkness to a room of bodies. Cliff was in one corner on a futon, and Bear was on the floor looking particularly dead. I escaped for coffee.

We spent a few hours on the meggling side of life. Flip Flop, Maps and Bear were engaging in conversation far too rapid, jovial and loud for the time of day and for the amount of sleep we’d had. I supped coffee and posted last week’s blog.

We moved around each other with the graciousness of royalty. Hikers on the whole, I’ve found to be hugely self-aware and respectful people. We shuffled about, packed up our belongings, and performed the usual morning chores when in town.

Bear made a fairly early exit for the trail. Cliff Jumper, Snakes and I had better priorities involving breakfast. A large reason we took the longer hitch to Salmon, the furthest town, was for better food, and the bakery, which we’d heard a lot of marvellous things about. Helpfully, it was closed due to it being Labour Day. Surely Labour Day should mean everyone is labouring to bake me bread and pastries. Forgoodness sake.

It was no real chore to return to the Junkyard Bistro, where we had the most excellent food last night. We arrived via the fishing shop where we bought cereal bars and gas.

Form here, we waddled our overfed selves out to the supermarket where we spent a lot of time a and money buying all the very best foods.

We’ve upped our game a little and now have fresh bread, sundried tomatoes, squeezy baby food type fruit pouches, granola (no more children’s cereal for me) good coffee, and a more substantial bar than the 100 calorie cheap chewy things we had been buying. We also acquired a lot of free mustard sachets from the cafe.

We found space to unpackage all the goods and restore them in our trusty and now very old and minging zip lock bags. All extremely efficiently I’m sure you can imagine. An older lady on her way in stopped to ask us where we found the baby food type squeezy fruit pouches, she was particularly impressed with them.

We left for the petrol station which are the only establishment to see Combos. I probably haven’t spoken enough on Combos. They are the best things I have to look forward to on trail. Prezl tubes, stuffed in a way which makes them taste like pizza. They’re extremely heavy and worth every gram. I always take two bags.

We walked another half mile to the junction of two roads, and down to the riverfront motel to pick up my socks which Taz Baz had kindly laundered back in Lima, then carried for 8 days after I forgot to retrieve them, then left at the motel for me to aquire, along with a little treat, some washing powder, as he’d bought two and only needed one. I suggested we leave it for the next hikers as it was liquid heavy. Snakes disregarded my ridiculous comment and she snatched it out of my hand and agreed to carry it to the next town.

Fascinating stuff hey?!

We found a spot in the shade and walked out into the sun whenever a vehicle passed us, magic thumbs on display. We soon were offered a lift, by a chap going only 20/45 miles. We gladly accepted. He was a rafter, very normal, held good conversation and drove sensibly. A good hitch.

After he dropped us off, we found another suitable hitching spot, still 25 miles ish from where we needed to be. This time there was no shade, we stood with umbrellas open in the blistering sun for 45 minutes before a car pulled in. Idaho hitches are hard.

I sat in the back with Cholla the dog, who I liked immediately. The second hitch was another good driver, and a very normal nice chap. This was good news.

We didn’t end up hiking until 4:10pm, which was a bit later than we’d have liked.

Now at higher elevation, the air was cooler and we had mottled shade from trees in the woods.

The walking was easy, which as nice as our packs were ridiculously heavy. We were mostly on dirt road through woodland, shaded predominantly.

After 6.5 miles we arrived at water. It made sense to eat dinner here as we had a 10 mile carry to the next water. We sat on a bridge over the river and gorged pasta with noodles mixed in. Gourmet. I love trail food so much I may have to carry on eating it after we’re done.

We moved on through an area of dead trees up a small hill as the sun was beginning to set. Before dark we found a squishy piece of forest floor to rest our weary heads.

I hung our food on an entiredly unsuitable branch (too short). As per usual my food wouldn’t all fit in the bear bag so the two sacks were raised with an additional plastic carrier bag of my extras. Let’s see if a bear can work out how to untie my loose bow and eat all my Combos.

10.3 miles on the day.

Day 121: The big burn

We woke having slept so very well. Getting to be just 30 minutes earlier than the last 5 nights paid off it seems.

We left camp by 6:50 and walked for 6 miles through a tree graveyard. There is a beetle which asphyxiates the trees and kills them. We’ve seen this since Colorado. It’s pretty sad.

We filled up on water at the creek and endulged in the usual breakfast routine. Flip Flop and Noodle passed us.

We continued on and up one of the most uninteresting climbs I’ve ever experienced. Poor dead trees.

Snakes and I pulled over, off trail to lunch in the shade. Fresh bread was a delight. We attempted some maths and research into future miles on trail. From here the trail climbs up, then immediately down. To avoid this we turned east, off-trail and bushwhacked across to rejoin the trail. Possibly it saved us 0.4 of a mile and pointless ascent, but probably took just as long.

We seemed to endlessly keep climbing. Gradually but consistently. Eventually we were rewarded at ‘Surprise Lake’ where we took of our clothes and entered without much in the way of hesitation. It was glorious.

Still gaining elevation, and still in the sad dead tree land we moved on, making good time. Tea came at 4pm and 20 miles on the day. This was wonderful, it’s always wonderful. The clouds covered the sun and we were in no hurry. Just as we were packing up, Handful passed us. She’d had all manner of issues with Giardia first, then her rucksack breaking a day from town. She’s now back on track and racing to meet her Mum in Anaconda. I wish I were meeting my Mum in Anaconda.

We took shallow switchbacks downhill, which my knees were greatful for. The sun was still behind cloud, and the humidity was rising.

Snakes took off down a side trail for water from a spring. While I sat on a log and listened to an inordinate amount of life for such a sad dying place.

We powered up our last hill. As storms rolled all around us, I had a flicker of an image of Dylan, as a Simpson, in a cloud, with ‘God’ (the one in the Simpsons) moving weather around as a pair. Moving it away from us. We hiked for a good while, totally avoiding the storm. We paused on a log, and watched lightening strike the ridge we’d just been on. I hoped CLAP was well clear of it.

It became clear the storm was coming toward us, and we were 0.4 miles from our highest point still. We moved fast and raced up to the top as the storm was above us. Lightening began to strike far too close and we began to run as the trail descended 0.6 miles away from the top. I knew there were flats pots there for tents. We arrived as the storm swirled around us. And just as we did, the rain bucketed down. We just managed to get our umbrellas up in time and squatted down by a tree.

Now in a lower location, we were pretty safe, but just avoiding heavy rain. I guess Dylan isn’t a Simpson, moving weather for me.

As the rain subsided, we danced around the next move. Do we erect the tent, do we cook, do we hike on? We’d managed 24.7 miles so far, pretty much our target, but it would have been nice to hike 2 more with the time we had left. Unfortunately this time was wasted cowering under a tree. The storm moved ahead of us and we didn’t fancy walking into it.

We erected the tent and settled on the marvellous sounding idea of an early night. We cooked dinner, with which we ate fresh bread. Snakes had her baby fruit mush thing for desert and I was jealous at having already eaten mine.

After I hung the food (having snapped two dead branches trying twice before) and once in the tent, we were alerted to a small herd of elk running passed in front of our tent, and then back again.

Soon Maps arrived by torchlight having had a lie in this morning and some beer with hunters, not long after Cliff arrived too.

Day 122: Beetle kill

It’s now dark enough at 6:30am that I never believe it could possibly be time to get up. But we always get up. I can’t wait to not have to get up. (I don’t mean when I’m dead).

We packed and left like the treadmill of always and everyday.

Today we climb Mt. Snowdon and Ben Nevis, and a bit more. But, we also switch to the very last map, so that’s exciting…

We continued through burn areas, desolate, sad and boring. Three out of the four first water sources were dry. We filled up at a low flowing stream and hiked on to make 6 miles before breakfast. A multitude of blowdowns blocked us every few hundred metres and this slowed us a lot. They also often hurt to climb over, due to a million concealed bastard branches sticking out.

Beginning our first climb took us into forest and some much nicer trail. It was gentle and well graded for 2 miles up. The 3 miles descent was just as nice, water was flowing erywhere and shade was all about us.

We began our second, steeper climb, to Pintler Pass, which, much like the first was a gentle and sensible gradient. Until half a mile in, when it turned into an evil upright slog in direct midday sunlight. The top was a very welcome sight and we stopped in the shade for sandwiches and apples.

The descent was slow and stunning down to a big blue lake. We celebrated the ending of the Idaho Montana map with a refreshing swim in Johnson lake. We were dry soon after we exited and had nice memories for the next climb, a megaladon up to Rainbow pass.

Once there, the views were nothing short of spectacular. We were now high above and looking down on Johnson lake. We dropped over the other side of the narrow ridge and began to descend to yet another lake. Here, we sat and drank tea. It was so good, I wanted another.

Onward and downward into deep forest. Rocky and or flat terrain demands much focus and makes us both mentally exhausted and in need of a nap. Luckily after 3 miles descending we had our fourth climb. Climbing always wakes me up. Initially it was the steepest of the four today, then it plateaued and made for nice walking before steepening again toward the top. We plummeted down to Warren Lake which made for a perfect dinner spot. Currently at 23.7 miles we only had 1.3 left to go.

And then came Maps, tumbling down the hillside and ejecting out where we sat. Maps always comes baring much in the way of news. She planned a little over 2 more miles.

We walked together planning the logistics of the next few sections. Darkness fell rapidly and camping was not possible in the thick lumpy woodland. We continued by headlight to Maps’ chosen spot where we cowboy camped as the night was warm and clear.

26 miles on the day.

Day 123: Beautiful climbs

I slept extremely well thank you. I also thoroughly enjoy waking up warm snd outside. We meggled for all of about 4 minutes, then begun our routine of everyday.

We hiked out, passing sleeping Maps, who keeps a messy bedroom.

We begun with a climb of, 3.5 miles which flew by with thoughts of my dreams. I had a Dylan related wobble yesterday, which left my sobbing at teatime. He’d been deeply in my thoughts of late. In my dream he had featured, and it was the first dream of him I’d had where he’d not been dead, lost or ill. He handed me a gift and it was a tiny half eaten jar of jam. He found this hilarious. And so did I.

We dropped down the other side of hill number 1, out of the sun and into cold shade where we ate breakfast.

Fueled on granola and coffee we began hill number 2, 3 miles to the top.

We’re now in typical Montana woodland, with big views and plentiful water. We summited Rainbow Mountain speedily and flew down the other side. Once at the bottom, we paused for sandwiche, in preparation for hill number 3, the steepest yet.

The trail was steep, but switchbacks eased things. The views were stonking and so, the top came quickly and soon, we were on Goat Flat, a surprising and quite lovely view.

Energised by having completed our acsent for the day, we skipped down switchbacks to Storm Lake.

Here, just before tea break and while looking for a suitable spot to dip ourselves in the lake, we met a lady with her dog. Extremely well-meaning I’m sure but cripes did she want to chat. She insisted on finding out what movies were screening in Anaconda, for our benefit, went into great depth on the portion sizes at Berkleys, demanded to know where we would be staying in Anaconda, even though we didn’t know ourselves, and then proceeded to let us know that next, after the CDT we want to ”do Kathmandu, like she did”.

We gave continuous clues as to our desire to depart, but these were ignored. The one question I did ask her, was also ignored. Eventually we peeled ourselves away as she continued on. We went and hid around the corner , lest she came back.

Tea was wonderful. We cleaned off in the lake and I kid you not, I had possibly my best cup of tea yet. Though it must be said, Lipton, in real life, is an unacceptable brand of tea.

We circled the lake then took off down a dirt road which Snakes spotted. This diversion would save us 3 miles total and have us camp on the highway which we’d take into Anaconda tomorrow.

7 miles later we plonked ourselves on the grass, exhausted and in need of feeding. Snakes cooked up a feast, yet again. I’m not sure on the recepie but ‘yellow’ was a key ingredient. I must get her to make it for you some time.

We continued on dirt road for another 2.8 miles before dark fellabout us. We stupidly erected our tent, discretely off the highway. The highway which has cars on it. Cars which make noise. All through the night. Preventing us from sleeping.

Day 124: Anaconda

We woke, so we must have slept. And packed up and continued up the road.

We had a speedy 11.2 miles up the road into suburban Anaconda, where all the lawns were ridiculously symmetrical and green. It was a pleasant and uneventful walk. Lauren Lavern has massively grown on me as a replacement to Kirsty Young.

We walked straight to the post office where 6 parcels awaited us. We bounced our two bounce boxes up to Augusta, not yet needing cold weather gear, and took the remaining packages to Donvians for breakfast, just as it began to rain.

We unpacked a sleeping bag liner (for me) from Puppa Steve, encased inside was many treats! Thanks Steve. And a mega mega condiment coffee filled package from the Lilac Fairy!!! Just as I was running low on mustard too!! Thanks so much to Jo for this incredible treat. Even better, and most hilarious was her three page letter and tales of home and Nunney life, which we read aloud together.

Maps arrived and we made important phone calls regarding the up and coming logistics with permits in Glacier National Park. We also had to check when the stores and motels close for winter which is closing in.

The storm subsided and we left for the Laundromat, which was combined with a casino and bar.

Like all the best laundromats are. There Cliff Jumper joined us and we drank beer while the machine washed our clothes.

We left to resupply. Bear wonders if in normal life, will we still call shopping for food, a ‘resupply’. I hope so. I nipped off to get my 5th and final pair of shoes which I’d sent to a motel up the road, while Snakes shopped for food. We converged at the checkout where a nice local offered us a lift to our lodgings. This was fortunate as it was now raining harder than it ever has ever before ever.

Geyser and Sunny the dogs kept me company while crammed in the back of the surprisingly not spacious massive truck.

We had a fairly grim room above a pub, which had everything we needed except coffee which upsets me greatly. After a quick rinse, we left for the brewery where we met Maps, Flip and Bear. The acoustics were loud which made for a perfect venue for Flip Flop and Bear, now half cut.

We went for food back at Donvians, Baby Food, Cliff Jumper, Family Size and Taz Baz soon joined us there and we crammed around a small table. Snakes and I left at a respectable hour, aiming to leave earlier than normal the following day.

450 ish miles to go, the next stop is the Capital, Helena. Funds are dwindling so we really need to finish, or at least stop paying for things.