Week 21: Whatever you dream you can do, begin it.

East Glacier to Waterton Lake

September 21st to September 27th

Day 142: Zero 16?

We woke in meggley heaven. Handful had already escaped to hitch back and hike the 8 miles of road she’d missed. Snakes went across the street and bought coffee for Cliff Jumper and me.

We couldn’t meggle for as long as we’d liked as the all you can eat buffet closed at 10am. This of course was an incredibly important priority.

We left for the beautiful East Glacier Lodge and settled down on a large swanky table where Jandles and Family Size were all on plate number 1. The buffet didn’t dissapoint and we, as total hiker trash in a 5 star spot, were treated as equals to the guests at the 1972 Princeton College reunion.

Family and Jandles made it to 7 plates of food before reaching ‘all they could eat’. We all retired to the lounge, Snakes took an entire plate of food with her. Sensible lady.

We sat in comfy chairs and took care of individual business. I wrote my blog, Snakes went to the gift shop, Maps called home, Cliff went to resupply and the lads sat and chatted about silly boy things.

From here we left to the general store where a dismal and expensive resupply awaited. We worked it out and felt confident we wouldn’t starve. A special trip was made to the petrol station for this is where one finds Combos. The most essential part of my resupply.

East Glacier is a seasonal town and it closes in 2 days. This meant all the seasonal workers were on total wind down after a possibly exhausting and busy (4 month) season. This was demonstrated by total lack of any possible effort to disguise the fact that the workers would all rather be anywhere else than currently serving us. This of course amused us greatly.

We left for the motel via the bakery for sandwiches and beer. We began to sort our final resupply on the table outside our room. This was our final chore. From here I went straight to bed and commenced a binge watch on Netflix. I remained horizontal for the much better part of the day.

Bear, on his 2nd zero in East Glacier, still unable to leave, joined us.

By 4pm Bear had had enough and left to hike out. Family Size, Maps and Cliff Jumper were all now crammed in the room and beer was flowing about us. We talked about plans for the final days.

Before long, Bear returned, he’d not made it further than the bakery and had decided to stay another night.

By 7pm we dressed for dinner and left for the lodge for a special elaborate treat.

We received the occasional odd look from a 60 something year old posh Princeton Graduate in a silly stripey blazer, but in general the lodge seemed very uccustomed to smelly hikers in extremely short shorts frequenting the establishment.

We sat down at a table for 10. On reflection, this was the first time men had outnumbered women on this hike. We’d had generally been in equal force, or sometimes women had even outnumbered the men. This was something that the chaps had commented on a fair amount along the way. How good it was that more women were choosing to hike.

We ate well and felt extremely full and tired so swiftly returned to the motel to be in bed by 10pm.

Day 143: Two Medicine

I woke to more coffee delivered to my bedside by the glorious Snakey Legged one, this morning there was also a cinnamon bun too. We finished an episode of Black Mirror and began a slow, gentle pack up.

The bakery came next, the last day of the season in East Glacier arrived and the young lady behind the counter was entirely pissed off at the arrival of paying customers. Sandwiches were eaten.

We departed fairly rapidly for the trail and began climbing immediately. The terrain was quickly beautiful, then absolutely stonkingly beautiful. The climb was considerable, but nothing we couldn’t swiftly manage.

Before long we passed into ‘Glacier National Park’ and we’re warned nothing and no one would protect us from all the many and varied dangers within the park. If we were going to get mauled by bears, moose, mountain lions or weather, it would be here. Which was uplifting to me.

We completed the climb. The ridiculously impactful and sometimes worrying winds which were pushing us in all the directions available did not overpower the joyful feeling of the views and the fact that we were on the home stretch.

We descended rapidly down switchbacks. Just after Snakes advised that I secured my new favourite hat, somehwere other than on my head, it of course blew off. I rescued it, just, and Snakes was good enough not to comment on having told me so.

We arrived at two medicine in good time, but having not yet eaten lunch after out later departure. We checked into the ranger station to sort our permits.

Similarly to Yellowstone, we now must book and pay for specific camp sites, and this would set a definite milage for each day. The positive of this is we all know where we’re camping each night so can stay as a group more easily, the negatives are, we have to complete the milage no matter if we want more or less, and, the National Park Campsites tend not to be as festidious on cooking and eating in extremely separate locations, as I am.

Snakes and I arrived first and got the plans underway. It became clear the ideal scenario that she had mapped out was not going to be possible due to a few of the ideal spots being booked up already. Working out the mileages and locations made my head hurt before long. Cliff and Maps then Family arrived next. The options were not favourable and it looked like this stretch would take a 6th day when we wanted to do it in 5.

We either complete another 12 miles today, finishing late as it was already getting on, or, do a bigger mile day tomorrow and camp here at the ranger station having only hiked 10 miles. Neither options were good, but at least if we stopped now, we could eat lunch. I also bought a snazzy pack of Glacier playing cards.

The weather ahead didn’t look great, but we were at the mercy of it regardless.

We chose to stay where we were, enjoy the afternoon and an unrushed lunch, then hike 25 miles tomorrow.

We watched a compulsory video on park safety and what to do when bears begin to eat you and useful things like that. Then walked to the campsite we’d been issued, which happily happened to be the one furthest away from absolutely everything.

The park was also on shutdown, the camps store was shut, the toilets were shut, the bins were shut.

We enjoyed what felt like a luxurious lunch in the windy sun. It almost felt like friends had planned a weekend excursion.

Maps walked down to the Lake to write her journal and soon we all ended up there. There was a joy fulness about the afternoon, probably savouring the last bits of clement weather.

We walked back to camp for dinner, Family Size arrived with 4 beers, then left. A short while later he was back with two humongous burgers and three gigantic slices of cake. He’d gone to ask an RV if he could purchase beers from them and they’d given him all those goodies. This made tonight a party.

10 miles on the day.

Day 144: The worst

It rained through the night, the wind was threatening above. This made me ansy and unable to sleep. The night was warm and I was incredibly comfortable. But no sleep.

We woke at 6:30, it was still raining. We lay listening to it until 6:45 and decided it had eased enough to get up.

We managed to take the tent down before it started again, but it was pretty much sodden anyway from the night.

Without much communication, I think because we were all incredibly underwhelmed about the day of rain ahead, we moved to the bear locker to get food and went about our individual routine. Maps and Cliff left via the toilet block, so we’re a few minutes behind us leaving. Family Size, of course was still in bed. It was his birthday, he was probably thinking through all the many places he’d rather be.

Snakes and I started out with our umbrellas up, the first long climb of the day was immediate and I warmed fast. I can’t see ahead too well with the umbrella while also using poles, and looking for bears, which as we know, are an issue for me, so that soon dropped.

The day was consistently blowing at 35mph and gusting heavily at 45mph (at a rough guess). It was misery. The first climb was 8 miles long, gentle initially and steepening to switchbacks climbing up to a pass. We couldn’t stop for breakfast for fear of death by hypothermia. The rain eased then worsened and continued like that for a while. While on the last half mile to the pass we were repeatedly blown to the point where throwing our damp bodies into the wind saved us from being blown off the edge.

It was all worrying and difficult. There was a moment of discussion regarding the possibility of turning back. But we seemed to just keep going.

Even though we were trapped in the absolute need to keep walking, the absolute inability to stop, the views were ridiculously impressive.

We plummeted steeply down the other side of the mountain and the wind blew us worse than on top of it. My sleeping pad on my ruckask splayed open to look like a set of wings. Useless wings.

We entered the treeline again, collected water and sheltered inbetween some trees. I rapidly put the stove on in an interlude in the rain, while Snakes hoped to dry our tent outer in the wind. I think the umbrella went up and down at least three times during ‘breakfast’ which lasted all of about 20 minutes. We added our fleeces and downed hot coffee before cold cereal. My portion was small and even after two cereal bars this morning I was pretty hungry still.

We had a fair few miles of slippery downhill now. I’m anxious all the time. The wind is so loud my bear calls have become more frequent, as I feel they don’t reach particularly far before the breeze takes them. Most minutes I’m yelling something inane to tell the big wild things we’re coming. It’s incredibly boring and really dehydrating. Snakes helps sometimes but she doesn’t care as much as me.

We eventually came to the base of climb two, it was raining still. We took off our fleeces and stowed them in a dry bag, slurped some wine I’d packed out and made for the top, 3.5 miles away.

The path was narrow and the wind continuously trying to blow us off it. It took a long time to summit the pass, as every time we’d see the trees ahead receiving a gust, we’d stop and brace legs and poles into the mountain. A few times I was caught by a gust, unprepared and dropped to the ground. It was shit guys, really shit.

We topped the pass and scurried down its backside. The rain, having had a momentary break had now returned with full pelt and didn’t stop for the remainder of the day.

We both agreed we hated everything.

After crossing a river, Snakes saw a dry patch and suggested we ate. We did so, standing up and prancing about to keep warm. Snakes opened a full block of cheese and just started taking bites. While I made a full sandwich in about 30 seconds. We gorged for minutes before packing up and moving on.

4 steps after lunch, I heard loud masculine grunting noises from the bushes directly to my left. I backed up fast unleashed the bear spray and took off the safety while yelling”hey bear”. I saw a golden fury lump moving out from the bushes towards us, we backed up further and tried to remain in control of our bowels.

The mammoth antlers of a HUGE male moose appeared (with its body attached). For a moment I was odly relieved that it wasn’t a bear. Then I remembered moose are far more dangerous and aggressive.

The moose turned toward us, and we quickly crossed back over the river and dove into the thick brush off-trail. We soon became tangled in everything as both of us were holding bear spray, poles, gloves and a chocolate bar. Something had to go, Needless to say it wouldn’t be the chocolate.

We dropped our poles and hid behind a tree (appropriate behaviour when the possibility of being flattened by a mosse is imminent). The moose crossed the river too. Bowel control became harder. He moved toward us slowly at first, then scurried up the trail in the direction from which we’d come. And the direction of our pals.

We quickly moved on, chomping on chocolate while in some level of shock.

My bear calls upped to two very minute now. Snakes enquired as to whether this was absolutely nescesry and I assured her it bloody well was. Hee ‘whooping’ also increased 100%, as did our levels of dehydration.

We’re now cold and wet and scared of moose. I really didn’t want to be here any more. The first time I’ve felt this on trail. Wind, rain and killer animals, every day. There was always something to be anxious about on the CDT.

I reminded myself that, soon I’d be in warm thermals in a warm tent, that I wouldn’t be wet forever more, that as long as I could keep screaming inane things every minute, I probably wouldn’t be charged by an animal, that we only have 3.5 days left and that it still remains, all my fault I’m here. That last one was kind, I liked me for that. Stupid me.

The wind, rain and cold was getting to Snakes, but it was the continuous covering of her eyes by her hat that really took the biscuit. The hat dropped over her line of sight one final time and she had absolutely had it. She removed the hat and threw it into the wet bushes, screamed at the top of her voice and quit the trail. In the very middle of absolute knowhere, she quit the trail.

I went to retrieve the hat, she told me to leave it there, like a naughty child who needed to think about its actions. I put the hat back on her head. And we continued walking. Snakes would have to quit at the Canadian border.

We arrived at camp after crossing a river over which the bridge had been removed. The national park seem to close everything before people are finished using the things. Camp stores, bins, toilets, bridges. Bloody park. We set up camp like a military operation. We moved to the designated food preparation area and very quickly set up the stove and threw a rope over the bear hang ready for the food. It was still raining. The umbrellas were amazing. We ate rapidly, finished our wine and thrust three hefty bags of food and scented items into the air.

From here we escaped into the tent and began a careful declothing, tactfully placing all the wet gear, ringing out socks and removing sodden items. Our thermals and sleeping bags were dry, our sleeping mats were mopped up with a buff and soon everything felt warm and snug.

Soon Maps, Jandles and Family Size arrived. Cliff remained a mystery.

Day 145: Recovering

Having slept utterly soundly, after a harrowing day and with the safety of chums all around, we woke at 7pm.

Today we had to make just 14.5 miles as per our permitted allocated campsite and the terrain was all pretty flat. This was joyous news.

We meggled until 8:30 when hunger and the need for the dunny took over.

Maps requested a weather update on her GPS and we were told 10% chance of rain, now and at 2pm and 4pm. Tomorrow would be similar. This news made me incredibly happy. The wind was high again today, but we had no passes to summit so that was OK.

We treated ourselves to coffee in camp before a slow pack up and departure. It was 9:30am, our latest yet and Maps, Family and Jandles were still meggling around.

Snakes found an easy 2 mile cut off, which left us 9 miles from camp early on.

We left the burn area having skirted the lake we camped at, another huge ocean-like lake appeared and we would spend most of the rest of the day walking along its rough edges.

Lunch came early and we took as long as we wanted to make our sandwiches and drink tea. Snakes was busy looking for more shortcuts. She’s pretty ready to be finished now.

Sporadic rain occurred, as did sporadic people. It was nice to have the time to chat.

We were nearing a road, so the number of day hikers increased. At a waterfall we stopped for cereal and people watched. A row of people lined up in front of us with swanky cameras and tripods, totally blocking the view. We sat above them like little ferral woodland animals, dribbling over their clean jeans and laundry scent.

We moved on, chatting to a few day hikers who clearly saw the ruggid tiredness in our eyes and they had to know where we’d come from.

We made it to camp by 3 ish. Far too early. But, the day was dry ish and we were warm enough.

I made a fire and got the bear hang set up while snakes part dried then erected the tent, stowing our things away while they remained dry.

The fire was a challenge as everything was damp as could be. Eventually with many minutes of tenderness, we had a hot fire, burning dry and wet wood without a problem.

Family arrived not long after us and went for more wood. Eventually, one after the other, our pals showed up. Maps, a section hiker named Dylan, Jandles, Flip Flop and Cliff. We all congregated around the fire and gave thanks for the ending of the rain.

Snakes had packed out Family a birthday cake, which we all partook in. It was a merry time. I wish all days were 14.5 miles.

14.5 miles on the day

Day 146: Going to the sun

Snakes had found an alternate route which would get us to the border tomorrow (Thursday) as we’d initially Intended, not Friday, as our permits dictated. Cliff mentioned that this alternate happened to be the Highline Trail which was the Crown jewel of the park. Which was a huge plus.

It meant 4 miles on a road to get to it, and camping at a site for which we did not have a permit, but Cliff also said she couldn’t imagine the camp being full at this time of year, or any rangers out policing it. Sold!

We woke to a dry morning, the skies looked blue. A steep 1.2 miles took us to the road which we hiked uphill gently for 4 miles. It was stonkingly beautiful. The mountains seemed to have a design totally different to anything I’d seen before. Super ruggid and full of color.

We came upon a visitor centre just before our trail turn. Here we exploded on to the floor and dried all our things in the morning sun while coffee and breakfasting.

After a delightfully lethargic breakfast in the sun, and with all of our belongings now dry, we hiked off in search of the crown jewls, the highline trail.We saw signs for it and immediately joined an impressively well maintained and easy ascending trail.

It was a handful of miles up to the first pass, which was probably a great choice for the average day hiker. There were a number of people out hiking today, given that the weather was turning, this was impressive. It was really nice to be around people. Odly.

We chit chated with a few, but mainly Snakes enjoyed passing them all at 100% miles an hour with her ‘I’ve almost completed the CDT’ legs.

Just before the summit of the pass a man pointed out bears to us. Bears guys. They were way up high, a cub and mother, traversing a hellishly steep looking rock ledge. I would show you a picture, but I didn’t take one. They were far enough away to be extremely uninteresting on a photo.

We summited the pass. This is where most turn back. The views were utterly incredible throughout. We’re only half way through the highline trail and it was already the most spectacular day on the CDT to date.

We continued up the trail and bumped into Cliff Jumper, delaying her day through mass huckleberry gorging. Just as we met her, a group of hikers were returning to the trail from the very steep off-path cliff to the right. They’d just seen a bear, on the trail and moving undeterred towards them. They’d freaked out and climbed high out of the way to let it pass. It did pass, then mooched off down the side of the mountain. We could see it nocelont in the meadow below. It was a grizzly. Smaller than I’d expected but I’m told that’s because their diet is more berries than humans.

At the top of the trail there was a chalet, closed of course because no one is hiking and everyone has gone home so why bother selling the usual drinks and snacks beyond September. For goodness sake.

Jandles met us here and lunched also. Now we have good sound confidence that we will finish this trail tomorrow, I can have two sandwiches for lunch today. Snakes gave me some of her yellow pepper and it was delicious. The sharing of food and water is pretty much the biggest kindness on this trail.

We continued on, the day bore many fruits on the shape of magnificent mountains, dusted with snow and bursting in colour. It really is the most incredible place. Easily rivalling Yosemite for magesty points.

Snakes and I took the lead and marched on making good time over the last pass and the last proper climb on the CDT.

We skipped tea to make better time into camp, arriving at 6:30pm ish. This was a camp we were not permitted for. There were many tent sites, but only one left free.

We decided not to take the last pitch, for fear that someone with a paid permit may turn up expecting a space. Instead we found a flat spot near by and covered from sight by trees and set up there. It could be a $500 fine from a ranger if we’re caught. Cliff says a lot of them are ass holes who love writing people tickets. I challenge them to find my expertly hidden tent.

We took our food the the cooking area and began preparing dinner while chatting to some hikers on a 5 day stretch. Soon Family, Jandles and Cliff arrived and followed suit. Jandles had a forecast and it looks like hefty snow for most of tomorrow untill noon, when it should brighten, hopefully in time for the monument.

We went to sleep excited for tomorrow, and talked for sometime about historic trail moments.

25 miles on the day.

Day 147: The end

We woke to thick snow on our tent. It was 7am. We packed up quickly to drop down to lower elevation before this gets worse.

It was snowing hard, we rushed up the trail, all our clothes on, all our hoods were up, it was a magical wonderland and felt like Christmas day.

Soon out of camp, I saw new prints in the snow. I’d recognise Maps’ wounded duck gait anywhere. She was ahead of us.

We caught up before long and rejoiced. Maps had arrived at camp at 11:30pm last night, after a 35 mile day, as she opted not to take the shortcut because she is a mentalist. She couldn’t find where we were camped so just set up her tent in the food preparation area.

We hiked the snowy plateau together then wound down the switchbacks through winter forest. It was most picturesque.

Once at lower elevations the snow turned to sleet, then rain. Before long we were soaked and freezing.

It was time to finish.

We arrived at a cabin at 5.7 miles, time for one last breakfast together . We shivered around each other and made coffee and I ate mash potato too. Jandles arrived drenched.

We powered on, it took a full 20 minutes to warm back up to freezing. We hiked fast. The ground was a wet muddy mess.

The miles flew by. Maps was singing at us. The rain eased and the sun appeared. We arrived at Waterton lake. It looked like an ocean. A rainbow sat on top of it. Welcoming us in.

We continued around the lake. 2 miles to the border.

We arrived at 2pm, sneaky little Jandles had snuck passed on a little shortcut, he was sat, alone with his beer. We crossed the border and drooled over the magnificent monument. Maps cracked the champagne she’d carried for 100 miles and was immediately drunk.

We sat in the sun, smiles beaming. It was lunchtime. Maps cooked up mac and cheese and stuck it wetween two bits of bread with thick slices of cheese on each side. Snakes and I made the last of our sandwiches and drank the wine we’d packed out. We were all giddy.

The sun was such a treat to arrive to. We managed to dry our things and spread all our crap all over the border.

We were bloody finished.

Oh wait, we’re not done, we’re still 4 miles from Waterton Town and our way into Canada. After 2 hours smugly sat by the monument, Snakes and I hiked on.

The miles went by fast. After 2 miles, the rain returned and we were back to our sodden state with umbrellas up. A pack of dear blocked the path as a last goodbye from the trail, we ascended our last lump and Waterton Town emerged from the mist and we descended to it.

Needless to say, we walked straight to the bar where Bear was sat.

Before too long, some of our dear friends emerged and we prepared for an evening of smug grins.

I’m so utterly greatful. We’ve been so blessed with love and kindness, encouragement, support and treats throughout.

I feel unbelievably pleased to have a body that allowed me to make this journey with out too much in the way of injury, only a few blisters some aches and a bit of herpes to speak of.

I’m lucky to have a Snakey Legged pal to have shared this ridiculous journey with. She’s an absolute warrior, and great at laundry amongst other things, like walking.

I’m so fortunate to have met such incredible people along the way, our pals out here filled this 5 months with laughter and love.

And to have two sets of parents that never advised we keep our saving safe, but who instead have been cheering us along the whole way.

The blog will continue, for so will we.

You can expect some post CDT blog specials, including the profiles of your favourite hiker characters, and gear reviews for the nerdier reader.

We have three months left here in Canada, and I intend to tell you all about it…..

Big love. X