HADRIAN’S WALL. DAY 5 and 5.5

After coffee and a dyhydrated chocolate mouse granola breakfast (likened very much, to the high quantities of very recent cow pats we’ve past and that I’ve slipped on) we motored off. 7.45 am. The air was cooler today, but not cold. Good for Eric who’s bags were full once again.

Showing no signs of wear Eric was collecting every stick, log and fallen tree we passed by.

After my exceptional Julia Bradbury impression, presenting my new imagined show: ‘Life on the Wall’ to Snakes, Julia has reared her head on a few more occasions. She’s an easy win with Snakes, I just speak uncomfortably loudly and with a real over the top sincerity.

Today was mainly fields. After 9 miles or so we veered off and away from the river Eden into Carlisle which, has a great deal of potential to be nice.

We sauntered straight into the first pub we saw, which happened to be GREAT. We ordered the most northern thing on the menu and charged all our electrical goods. Winnie Charged herself.

After an extremely fulfilling break, we wobbled on through the streets of Carlisle. I always have eyes like dinner plates when we’ve been out of town for a few days. On high alert to all the sensory joys around us. Traffic. Bins. Drains. Cigarettes. We made our way back to the river

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The cheesy smell of Himalayan balsam followed us through the edgelands of Carlisle as we passed through the borders of urban to county, and then back out into fields once more.

We bypassed our planned stop on account of it only being 3pm. The walking was flat and fast and we were being powered by pastie and chips.

Before long we arrived at the Greyhound pub and were (or rather Flat Eric was) warmly welcomed and gushed over by the Friday night locals. She soon acquired a boyfriend in ‘Shadow’ the handsome collie and followed him around like a shadow. When the biscuits ran dry and Shadow lost interest :

The food was cheap and bountiful, two of my favourite things. We charged our electrics and took advantage of the £4 deserts.

At 8pm, bellies full, we struck out into the evening in search of a place to put a tent. More challenging now as we’re were surrounded by houses, and Snakes has more of an issue with camping in someones garden than me.

Before the rain, total darkness and high winds hit, we ended up in a cow field under and oak tree on a thick carpet of grass. Having set the tent up and got to the point of being horizontal, we both simultaneously agreed we should move the tent for fear of being crushed by the dying limbs of the oak tree above. We worked as a seamless, oil rich machine moving the tent in a matter of minutes. A night of rain and wind ensued.

Poor Flat Eric just pulled her first 20 miler. The only excuse she needed to be allowed inside the tent, again, tonight.

Day 5.5 : the finale

After 20 miles, with Eric’s head nestled in mine most of the night, the rain hammering down and a cool air in the tent, I had the best nights sleep yet. We drank a strong coffee and performed the now slick pack up routine like a partnership of trapeze artists who’ve worked the circus together for years. Though, far less entertaining to watch.

We set out into the smeachy blowy morning, now by the estuary. After a bigger day than planned yesterday we had a mere 5 miles to finish, but importantly we had to time this with the 10.30am opening of the tea room in Bowness.

Thoughts started to turn to the next adventure, as they always do at the end of any trip we’re on. As well as all the gear replacements required before that can occur.

You’ll be pleased to hear we made it, with 4 minutes to spare before the Pear Tree tea room opened its doors. We ate homity pie and cake, all freshly out of the oven.

A quick trip to the Kings Head Inn to purchase our usual pin badge to add to the collection, then to the car (who’s wing mirrors were surprisingly unharmed) to head back to the safety and warmth of the North Wales family contingent; with a huge TV screen to watch England win the World Cup tomorrow, right?

I could not be more impressed with Flat Eric. She’s enriched the walk immensely, following us without question, always ready to go, no complaints, no drama just a stalwart, strong, obedient little friend. (A bit like Snakes).

Cheers for the nice wall Hadrian, on to the next one then….

SIDENOTE: Huge thanks, love and appreciation to my new collection of mega fans/patreons/subscribers for your generous donations to keep this all going. When I launch the Sonder merch, you guys will all automatically receive free FLATERIC caps and BUTTMUSHROOM badges. I’m not going to keep asking for cash, I’m just not that kind of guy, and was reluctant to do it in the first place (it was Snakes’ idea in fact) but, this will be a yearly fee, so as and when you ever feel moved to: astridcallomon@gmail.com on PayPal

I’ll leave you with this final mushroom: