North Wales Pilgrims Way – Day 3

We all had a most peaceful night, waking only to the grumbling of ancient plumbing as the heating kicked in. At 6.45 we made tea and packed up.

We were off on our way by 7.30am. The weather forecast gave 90% chance of rain. We were fortuitously in the 10% for 90% of the day. It was warm and bright once again. Lucky us. We’d stopped short of our desired mileage yesterday on account of the pub and church being open and the heavens also threatening to open. As such we planned a longer day today.

A beautiful woodland trail paralleling the river got us warmed up. Eric got a few extra squirrel chasing miles in along here and there were wild poo spots aplenty.

Muddy soggy grassy fields and farmland tracks all pretty aggressively climbing upwards lead us to a barn, in which we had breakfast. 1.5 hrs to gain 3 miles, today was feeling slow. The rain was threatening ahead, but just seemed to circle around us , like the sunny patches were making a clear road in the sky for us to walk through. Thanks to the higher powers of weather control.

We enjoyed continuous undulations down fam tracks, over stiles, over little babbling streams and through the odd desolate tiny hamlet.

We summited onto a high road surrounded by moorland in the sunshine. Soon, a Tesla incongruously rolled down the hill toward us and came to a stop. It was Kate. Kate knew we’d stayed in the church in Llansannan last night, and knew because apparently everyone knew. She was affiliated with the church somehow and was very please we manage to hunker down in her village last night. But, very much displeased when she found out Gareth had let us have the heating on and had likely left it on all night. Nice one Gareth.

Across the tops now Lou asked if this was Bodmin moor…. No Lou.

We stopped for lunch on a bench in a remote Churchyard. Here I messaged the Community Facebook group of the small desolate, unpronounceable village we were aiming for tonight, asking if they could please leave their church open for us…..

From here we motored on the last few miles to the first and last shop in some time. The great yew in the churchyard in Llangernyw was “between 4,000 and 5,000 years old” pretty big scope for inaccuracy there but nonetheless, one of the oldest trees in the world. I gave it a hug and pondered on the things it would have been witness to.

The nice man in the poorly stocked shop looked unwell and unhappy, we did our best to brighten his day and I think we were successful. We bought a lot of things anyway. In addition to those things which were needed and sensible, Eric got some sardines and Spam. Lou got some shampoo , which we naturally mocked her for (it’ll transpire that I will be the first to use said shampoo later on today ). I purchased Jack Daniel’s and coke and Snakes pretty much stuck to her shopping list.

I used the time waiting for the girls using the public facilities (in which there was a wooden desk and visitor book) to patch up my blistering feet. My boots and therefore socks are soaked through and interstreamed with cow shit which is all causing wet pooy friction and therefore blisters.

I’d received word on my phone from the church, and was left the telephone number for Roy. I gave him a call to ask if Eglwysbach church might be left open for weary travellers. Yes was the answer from Roy. He assured us shelter, lighting and water, what more could 3 grotesque underwashed silage smelling pals and their poodle ask for ? …. Maybe some beer?

6.5 miles on through mizzle up another hill and across sheepy moors down to a road. All the high roads and low roads are stunning and very enjoyable to walk on. The sun was setting and Lou exclaimed that “it feels like November”….. (it’s October 28th).

The roads make a pleasant change from slow going muddy squelchy fields. Plus it gives me an opportunity to buy eggs.

We made to our destination it in the dark )which is now 5.30pm) and, as planned Roy had left the church open. He arrived about 6 minutes after we turned the lights on, which alerted him to our presence. I could only imagine he was staring out the window waiting for us to arrive. He settled us in and welcomed us heartily. Thanks Roy!

We ate and stretched, I had a tubtime in the kitchenette thanks to Lous shampoo!

Eric wolfed down her dinner before immediately sleeping, and barely stirred again.

20 something miles on the day?