North Wales Pilgrims Trail – Day 5

After all the moaning from Snake Legs and Lou, not wanting to leave the warm greasy confines of the cafe as dark set in last night, they both confessed that they were glad to have slogged their sweaty selves up the hill, to enjoy a wicked firey sunset and a night in our tents.

Lou would like me to clarify that she was not in fact reading the back of a bottle of water (Episode 3) in the co-op as I’d lead everyone to believe (making her look like a pill) but she was in fact comparing the difference between lucasade ‘sport’ and lucasade ‘energy’.

She didn’t contest though, the fact that her two minute ‘nip’ turned into what felt like a waiting for her to do a weekly shop. And, for a fair contest here, I will confess to being the most impatient human I’ve ever met. Hope that’s cleared things up for you (her).

Any who, after a cup of tea in the dawn light, we packed up most efficiently (even Lou) and after a couple of wild poos with excellent views we made our merry way across the tops and down into the sleepy slate-y village of Tregarth. We’re in slate country now.

We skipped the in and out loop into Bangor, on account of it being Bangor and instead opted for a lovely diversion cutting underneath.

The trail has been utterly stunning every single day. Not one single neutral or unimpressive section so far. It’s the most continuously quintessentially Welsh ramble you could imagine. Brooks, rivers, streams , single and duel track, moors and forest and coastal and all continuously moist.

We entered an ENCHANTING woodland, mossy ancient walls and meandering forest trail, the ideal place to build a little cabin and never return to real life.

We stopped after a swift 5 miles for breakfast, boiling water for coffee and spooning out a tin of Spam for little Eric.

It’s day 5 and up until now we’ve seen about 3 walkers. Today was positively bustling with dog walkers and farmers. Princess Eric got shouted at by a fair few farm dogs for being such a well pampered sweet princess angel.

Before swanning off down the hill into Llanberis we had a brief slog across the moors on a hard work heather encrusted path, a real ankle turner. We wove through small forgotten paths in desolate grey Welsh villages , up and down water filled slippy rock laden narrow overgrown trail and eventually down into the thick forest jungle where the smell of goat was almost overpowering to the point of face gurning.

Before long we found the long-horned goaty culprits of the smell and to ease the horror of the assault on our noses , a brown poodle called Kylo appeared to make everything better.

Down and down to the Llanberis slate mine (my favourite place of 2024) we had coffees and a bench lunch to the sound of the steam train and the noxious smell of burning coal. Bliss. If you haven’t been to the slate mine you must. It’s free and bloody brilliant. Honestly brilliant.

1 mile on over the head of Llanberis lake to Llanberis town and straight to the Spar for a pretty ample resupply. Opposite the spar was the pub, and outside the pub was :

All that was missing was a casino. We shuffled into the pub, purchased drinks and dumped all our stinky horrible clothes in a pile, donning only our waterproofs. Let me tell you, this is one of the worst parts of trail life. Wet boots with no socks and waterproofs on a 5 day unwashed body. Grim.

Our laundry was done presently thanks to Auntie LouLou. Big fans of the blog will know I’m not allowed anywhere near laundry on account of the very high chance of me ruining everything we all own.

Just as our belongings were dry, our pal Karen arrived to rescue us and make everything better.

She picked us up and plonked us in her immaculate and beautiful home, where she’d arranged the following: a cat (her cat) Julie Angel to be waiting for fireside snuggles, a roaring fire, lasagne and tiramisu, beers and wine. She’d turfed herself out of her own bed for us, and had enough hot water for us all to de-filth. Karen, our new favourite ever human.

Loulou had to rush online to secure her permit for the PCT, and managed to get the start date she most wanted so it was all a very warm happy celebration of things. LouLou spent most of the evening stretching her gammy leg by the fire and snuggling Julie Angel.

As an aside, Julie Angel has lunch. Do cats have lunch ? Three meals a day ? Julie Angel does.

We chatted the night away and stayed up well before our usual 8pm bedtime. Utter heaven.