North Wales Pilgrims Way Day 7/8

We spent a good hour abluting, in all the ways the amenities of a church would allow, which isn’t a great deal.

We departed at 7.30 and the air was still, I know I’m getting repetitive here, but it’s unseasonably warm.

Speaking of repetitive, Lou’s leg is still Gammy and after personally taping up the blisters on her swollen feet I’ve taken to calling her Shrekfoot. She refused to accept that as her trail name, but will accept ‘shortcut’ on account of her finding so many.

We marched the first 6 miles on the A-road easily, but all now feeling like we need a day off. The view now is of the sea to our right and mountain to our left. Lovely.

We came upon a surprise shop, in which, Lou (Shortcut) stocked up on her new favourite beverage Lucasade; and having studied the back of the labels in the shop on day 3 so carefully, and for so long, she has discovered a particular penchant for the ‘energy’ version – if you ever need to get her a present). Eric had a tin of mackerel and I bought some Space Raiders and coffee but did not consume them at the same time.

From here we climbed 300m up a steep pass and over the top. Here we joined the coast path and were reunited with tussocky cow shit laden fields with no obvious path, which was a nice way to slow things down.

Chats were aplenty and at 10.5 miles we stopped for a Space Raider lunch on some steps. Eric had her last Peanut Paw bar, but maintained a strong interest in our cheese. She’s getting hungrier by the day. Poor sweet princess.

2.5 miles more more now on easy coastal path and we were drawn into the riverside restaurant where , as usual , rather than tending to her feet, ablutions , and general personal admin, Lou (Shortcut) sat in situ until I said we’re leaving then decided to do the above list of chores.

The trail from here is coincident with the Welsh Coastal Path and hugs the very wild and beautiful coastline for some miles. It was spectacular. We had a warm breeze, sumptuous views, the sounds of waves and belching seals. Gorgeous.

Snake Legs suddenly became extremely zen and suggested we forgo the pub which we were heading to in favour of a wild camp on the hills as the sea makes her “very very happy”. Sweet girl. But no, we’re not forgoing the pub I’m afraid.

We peeled off the coast and gave Eric a quick wash down at a farm campsite, before strolling the last mile or so to a tiny village. A campsite here was our goal as it was situated opposite the pub. On arrival we discovered a small farm dog named Jet had been hit by a recently departed delivery van and had broken her leg. She was 14 and in a bad way, poor girl. We alerted the farmer and his son who got to work getting Jet to the vet .

We pitched up and limped to the pub at the end of the road, here we had a sumptuous meal and after this, I almost regurgitated it seeing to Shortcuts feet. I think friendships reach new levels when you’ve popped someone else’s blisters.

Back to camp for our last cosy night in the warmest Welsh October ever.

Day 8

An earlier start today, after packing up and readying ourself for our final day, I was sat with little Eric on her mat on the grass, awaiting the girls to ablute, I was wearing shorts and one thin top layer, the air perfectly still, and me, perfectly warm. Bizzare.

We left at the very first light. Snakes wondered if we might make it to the coast for sunrise….. the West coast. Sweet girl.

Back to the wild Welsh coast and along it for a few glorious miles

We stopped after a couple of hours for a delightful breakfast on the shore. We wove in and out of coves and little re-entrants with streams running down them. Eric LOVES the beach and was having the time of her life. Until Snakes went swimming and then the sea was Eric’s mother engulfing enemy.

Soon, we turned off the coast and inland back to shit fields and then beautiful, empty , narrow lanes with high hedges and all the good smells of autumn.

Before long, we could sea the end of the peninsular, we wound down the lane until the small village of Aberdaron appeared, a very sweet community at the edge of the world.

We made it to the church, the finish of the trail and asked an extremely ancient man to take a picture of us. This was always going to end badly and after checking the photos Shortcut informed us that unsurprisingly he’d actually taken a short video. Bless. We told him the shots were perfect and thanked him vigorously.

Soon, a small crowd of church goers had gathered around us and asked us persistently to have a look inside (while we we were having our picture taken)

“Aren’t you going to look in the church?”

“Yes, after we’ve had our picture taken by this lovely chap “

“Let me show you where to get the stamp for your pilgrims passport”

“OK, just after we’ve had this photo”

“If you like I could show you where the stamp is?”

“It’s ok we don’t actually have a passport”

“But you’ve walked the pilgrims way. All of it ?”

“Yes”

“But why didn’t you get a passport?”

“Because I can remember where I’ve been with my mind”

“Well, come and have a look in the church”

“Ok”

“Let me show you around”

“Ok”

We walked into a Saturday morning group session and were welcomed like hero’s,. After walking in the push lady said “WE’VE GOT THREE PILGRIMS HERE !!!”

We were offered tea and coffee and shown to the little shop they had in the corner, they all wanted to chat and know what we did for a living (odd) but were all very friendly and welcoming.

From here we limped over to the pub for one final hoorah, hot food and cold beers and a nice heated toilet. We awaited the arrival of Mr Snake legs who rescued us and drove us back to Snakey HQ for showers, Laundry, home cooked food and wine. And a very early night….

This trail is utterly brilliant, the perfect mix of everything. I cannot recommend it enough. You could push hard and up your miles, take it easy and use b&b’s or guesthouses on route , the pubs are largely open, the trail is incredibly well signed (if not well trodden) and the communities surrounding the trail are warm and welcoming.

And what better company than Shortcut, Eric and Snakelegs who provide such fuel for the fire that is my relentless piss taking. Special well done’s to Shortcut who seamlessly fitted in to mine and Snakes well oiled, possibly OCD and certainly single minded way of doing trails. Wish her luck on the PCT!

Until next time, friends